Ok well, I replaced the gearbox mount after a few struggles, but it is much better now and nice and solid.

I went to check the ignition timing using the spare battery and the timing light - what is the best way to do this? I took off the cover over the flywheel and I couldn't see anything, do I need a mirror or something to see in there? Or is there a different place to check it e.g. on the crankshaft pulley like most other cars?

I still need to check out the radiator as it didn't like the drive Kiama to Sydney and back on Sunday, which was really hot! I think it hit over 110 degrees on the gauge on the last bit of uphill before I could stop for a break.

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Yes you will need a mirror to see inside the cover you removed on the clutch housing.

Put the car in 4th gear, hand brake off and push / pull the car to rotate the engine to get the timing marks on the flywheel into view in the little slot. I suggest a dab / stroke of white out to make them easier to see with the timing light too.

Cheers Shane

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If it's not a Cooper S, the mini was designed to be modified!

Ok so I investigated into the cooling situation this morning and found..

1) Brand new looking pressed type water pump

2) 73 degree thermostat

3a) Crushed fins on the front of the radiator. It also has no drain on the bottom?


3b) Back side looks great

3c) What looks to be old paper gasket and silicone gasket blocking up the tubes

4) Crunchy looking thermostat housing


I flushed the block both ways with the hose but I couldn't see any solid bits coming out. I haven't undone the drain hole on the back of the block yet.

As far as I can tell
1) Water pump wasn't the cause of it running hot, but it would be preferable to have a cast impeller type
2) Thermostat wasn't the cause of running hot
3) Blocked and dented radiator is probable cause of overheating
4) Thermostat housing probably needs replacing

The radiator looks like a cheap 3 core already. Is it worth getting this one cleaned and pressure tested, or recored, or chucking it and getting a new one? They are on sale for $110 at the moment... http://minisport.com.au/prod48.htm

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The number of fins bent over will have a proportional effect on the cooling, more or less. So having perhaps 20 percent would be a reasonable part of your problem.

All those blocked passages inside your radiator though is more of a concern, it takes very little to block a radiator up. They will need to be rodded through to be absolutely certain the gunge is gone.

Be careful how much gasket goo you add to the water pump, it looks like too much was added last time, and this has beaded up inside the block and washed away with the rush of water around the pump.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

That water pump looks good mine had 3 and a half fins on it when i pulled it out and rusty lol

Cast impeller pumps work better than the bent tin ones like yours.
That radiator is a flimsy late UK one, only has 8 fins/inch. Not as good as an Oz one (16 fins/inch except early cars).
Considering it's full of crap I would toss it, then find a good s/h Oz radiator, reco it and fit that. Or a new UK super 2 core, or a new Chinese alloy one (maybe).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the confirmation. It's definitely worth replacing then

It wasn't me who put the water pump and thermostat in last time, do I even need to add the goo or is it ok with just the paper gasket? I never used the goo on my last car and it was always fine.

I was surprised when I pulled it out how good it looked!

Karcraft has the 3 core ARP1105, which is 16 fins/inch for about $150 (and at minisport.com.au for $110). I was thinking of that one or possibly the C-ARA-4442 2 Core one which is around $230. The standard flow cast water pump would be more than sufficient for a stock 998?

Whats the best way to get the radiator back in? I have the 2 piece cowling and a 16 Blade fan and sausage fingers... I'm thinking about covering the fins with a piece of cardboard to protect it while I cram it back in there

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The UK 2 core is more robust. The cheaper UK 3 core is very flimsy, mine lasted 3 weeks before the side strips parted company with the top join (which is poorly spot welded not rivetted like most radiators). I soldered it back together and sold it.
I put a Minispares/Karcraft super 2 core in Barney years ago, AFAIK it's still in there. They are a good radiator if you need a new one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So much for "QUICK" questions....

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Now, now, play nicely Tony

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"Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

TheMiniMan posted how to remove/replace the radiator the easy way some years back haven't checked to see if it is in the how too section or if anyone can find it or maybe Matt will post it again.

PS found it - two versions - Matts is the second one (scroll down)
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=11224

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

With all those bent fins you will have lost about 20-30% of your cooling efficiency. You can gently straighten them with tweezers or a custom bent paper clip

You can do it faster and safer with a bit of plastic card, such as used for spreading bog.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah if they're not too bad you can use a pet comb as well

... or getting cash out of an ATM?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43