The most difficult part is loosening the knurled aluminium 'nut' that attaches the cable at the bottom. On some models the part that it threads onto is also aluminium (sometimes its nylon. Its quite common for the threads to have been contaminated with bits of grit or corrosion that make undoing it really difficult. The problem being that because of the awkward angles its hard to get a good grip on it you sometimes end up having to take off the carby and manifold(s) to get enough purchase on it. If it comes undone easily the whole job is relatively simple.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

I just want to say,how good is this thread! So many useful hints. Maybe it should be condensed into a sticky?

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"Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

A good way to undo the knurled alloy nut on the bottom of the speedo cable is with a 750mm length of PVC Conduit.
The inside diameter of the conduit must be fractionally smaller than the knurled alloy nut.
When the conduit is slid over the full length of the cable and pushed onto the knurl on the nut it can be simply undone by turning the conduit which acts like a super long flexible socket.
All of which can be done from the top of the engine bay.
Hardest part is to find the right size PVC

Dave

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Hi all
I just installed a new cable on my mini that I recently bought that did not have one.
While the front is on ramps I reached in over the Pot Joint with my left hand and just screwed it on. Simple as.

Probably well worth the effort to put it on ramps.

Phil

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Can't you just replace the inner? Or have I just made myself look a complete dick


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Black is the new Black

I don't believe they sell an inner as a stand alone item.
The complete cable is around $25

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Cause you can - provided the outer is not damaged through to the inner sheath BUT you have to have the right inner and outer ( same length). Centre console has a shorter cable than the later Clubbies with off set instruments

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Any tips on what that size might be, Dave..? I've got a speedo cable here which I just can't access... My wrists don't bend far enough from below, exhaust manifold's full race (i.e. 3 into 1 under the body, so, harder to get past than LCB's). Radiator's a pig to get out (yes, even using the 'easy' out options, it then requires bending half the fan blades - I have witnesses!). Thanks.

So, what do you do when the speedo cable's on stupidly tight (i.e. too tight for fingers), the 7/16" bolt under it's immoveable (got a socket onto it, though it was only 1/4" drive and a very stubby driver), and you don't really want to remove the engine? What's the preferred orientation of the spanner? Car has pot joints, I've got access down the top. Can't reach anything from underneath (not the bolt, not the knurled nut). Suggestions?

You could consider removing the carbs. This would give next to full access and room to get a spanner in there. It will need you to replace the manifold gasket however.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I can get a spanner down there with the twin carbs and 3-1 Readspeed extractors (this style) in place. In the past day, I've managed to get a 7/16 spanner ring/open spanner down there, a stubby ratchet, and multi-grips (full sized! Just couldn't figure out how to get the multi-grips onto the cable). The bigger issue I've had is figuring out where there's enough space to turn the driver. I've just had another try, I went back to the 7/16" 1/4" drive socket, with a 1/4" drive to 1/4" hex adaptor, and a 1/4" spanner on it. I managed to get enough torque on it that I started bleeding through a few scratches on the back of my fingers (scratches obtained doing this yesterday), but no movement in the bolt.

Just have the car on stands and with the wheel hanging, or with the wheel off, you should be able to look through the inner guard, under the radiator and right at the speedo cable. Then just chisel it loose.

I'm surprised nobody has suggested a way of using a BFH on it.

Is there a butcher in the house

Surely there is no need to suggest solutions like "chisel it off" when there are perfectly sensible solutions given

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1964 998cc Cooper
1971 Mini K x 2
1972 Clubman GT

Here it is stevo, I found your Butcher's Apron

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Instructions followed. Knurling removed from 1/8 of the nut. Nut still completely unmoved. I guess the good news is that it removed all excuses for not greasing the suspension...