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goodie
PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:54 pm 
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Are you running any sort of inhibitor / Glycol in it ?
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9YaTaH
PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 8:50 pm 
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Ummmm new engine? Possibly just tight and not run in? Change oil more often than usual....how many "miles" on the new engine :?:

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Babes
PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 9:44 pm 
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Was about to say the same, new engine will run hot until everything beds in.

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jme
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:19 pm 
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mini_mad_matt wrote:
My suggestion would be to take the thermostat out and test at what temp it starts to open and when it is fully open. Just put it in some water on the stove with a thermometer and watch as it heats up. If it's fully open before 80 degrees, then seeing as you are getting 95 i would say you have a problem, but if it's fully open at 90 then i would say your engine is fine, but you might like to put in a cooler thermostat.


It is a good suggestion, I have already changed the thermostat.

I'm running Nulon coolant/anti-freeze.

The engine is new, only about 1000kms on it, how long do you think until it runs at normal temp?

Also, it is a 1275 with mild cooper s style cam, twin carbs, etc. but it doesn't have an oil cooler. Do you think it needs one?
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jme
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:28 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
If you engine is in correct tune (ign timing & carb mixture)

& as long as the fan belt it tight

& if there is no leak from the head gasket, nor crack in the head

& if , as you say, everything else is in good order

then it shouldn`t be running hot at all

but simply becasae you have stated all this already & it`s still running hot then -->

You can try the old trick of blocking off the original by-pass (btween water pump & cyl head)
& making a new one go from the back of the head & take it to the top tank of the radiator

we have a fitting welded into the top tank of the rad & simply use the std issue water outlet (normally for the heater) & Bob`s your Aunty :-)

but,,, it seems to me that one or more of the above issue may still be playing with you

or your temp-infra-red thingy is not reading acurately


The fan belt seems plenty tight, there is no coolant leak at all, no sign of oil in the water or water in the oil. It is also running the under bonnet 'fresh air heater' so it should be fine for temp.

I will try a radiator cleaner and flush tomorrow.

I also have a 12 blade plastic fan, is it worth trying out a six blade fan like this:
http://minisport.com.au/prod352.htm
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jme
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:35 pm 
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The car tends to sit with the temp needle just to the right of the 'N' but in stop-start traffic the temp increases to where it is shown below:
Image

Once it gets this hot it starts to backfire through the carby, especially under acceleration.
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9YaTaH
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:57 pm 
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jme wrote:
mini_mad_matt wrote:
My suggestion would be to take the thermostat out and test at what temp it starts to open and when it is fully open. Just put it in some water on the stove with a thermometer and watch as it heats up. If it's fully open before 80 degrees, then seeing as you are getting 95 i would say you have a problem, but if it's fully open at 90 then i would say your engine is fine, but you might like to put in a cooler thermostat.


The engine is new, only about 1000kms on it, how long do you think until it runs at normal temp?



Depends on what sort of miles they were...hope you are trying to get out onto a highway (as opposed to a Freeway) where you can vary your speed etc and pull over when she starts to get a little too warm....the engine will take time to free up...won't happen overnight :D

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Morris 1100
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:06 pm 
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jme wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
If you engine is in correct tune (ign timing & carb mixture)

& as long as the fan belt it tight

& if there is no leak from the head gasket, nor crack in the head

& if , as you say, everything else is in good order

then it shouldn`t be running hot at all

but simply becasae you have stated all this already & it`s still running hot then -->

You can try the old trick of blocking off the original by-pass (btween water pump & cyl head)
& making a new one go from the back of the head & take it to the top tank of the radiator

we have a fitting welded into the top tank of the rad & simply use the std issue water outlet (normally for the heater) & Bob`s your Aunty :-)

but,,, it seems to me that one or more of the above issue may still be playing with you

or your temp-infra-red thingy is not reading acurately


The fan belt seems plenty tight, there is no coolant leak at all, no sign of oil in the water or water in the oil. It is also running the under bonnet 'fresh air heater' so it should be fine for temp.

I will try a radiator cleaner and flush tomorrow.

I also have a 12 blade plastic fan, is it worth trying out a six blade fan like this:
http://minisport.com.au/prod352.htm

It shouldn't run hot with the current spec, so there is a problem, you need to find the problem and fix it.
Changing the fan will not fix the problem.
Fitting an oil cooler will not fix the problem.
They might disguise the problem but the problem will still be there.
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simon k
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:10 pm 
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jme wrote:
The car tends to sit with the temp needle just to the right of the 'N' but in stop-start traffic the temp increases to where it is shown below:
Image

I don't see any problem here at all - I reckon this is as close to perfect as you'll ever get

jme wrote:
Once it gets this hot it starts to backfire through the carby, especially under acceleration.


backfiring through the carb like that is probably from running a bit lean - get it tuned

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booy_it
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:39 pm 
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Just a question ....have you put the fan the correct way around
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Wombat
PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:06 am 
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simon k wrote:
jme wrote:
The car tends to sit with the temp needle just to the right of the 'N' but in stop-start traffic the temp increases to where it is shown below:
Image

I don't see any problem here at all - I reckon this is as close to perfect as you'll ever get

jme wrote:
Once it gets this hot it starts to backfire through the carby, especially under acceleration.


backfiring through the carb like that is probably from running a bit lean - get it tuned


Agree - had a Nomad after the Mini in the 70s - that's exactly how the gauge looked and behaved

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talfox
PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:51 pm 
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I had the same worry about my k running hot with a fresh engine. I fit a capillary temp gauge to give me a better reading and the car doesn't go over 80degrees and not over 90degrees in hot weather sitting on 4000rpm for hours.
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mini_mad_matt
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:20 am 
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jme - you replied saying you already put a new thermostat in. Do you know what spec it is?

Also the question about did you fit the fan the right way is a pretty good question, it's a common mistake people make putting it on backwards.
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simon k
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:50 pm 
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mini_mad_matt wrote:
Also the question about did you fit the fan the right way is a pretty good question, it's a common mistake people make putting it on backwards.


if it was in upside down, it'd be getting f*ck loads hotter than it is wouldn't it?

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Babes
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:13 pm 
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My pickup I just bought sits here on the gauge too, checked it with my infrared temp gauge thing and it was only at 80 so a dodgy reading gauge, maybe yours is the same

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