That is an 850 magic wand lever. Unless bits have wear, they are quite direct.
The puddin stirrer is the later one, that adapts onto the remote housing. They get really loose..! Because of their design (or lack of it).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Looks great ! Love the M Wand ... Had one on my 850 van .
Might have to stick one in the matic one day , so good to see your progress on this ! Thanks for sharing

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

I have now fitted my 59 tooth crown wheel to a pot joint diff.


Then I had to lock the G/B to undo the pinion nut.
Locked in 1st & 4th.

With the gearbox upside down and a socket and 1/2" breaker bar, I hit the breaker bar with a 2lb hammer and the nut came loose
The 3rd motion shaft bearing retainer was too small for the 20 tooth pinion so I put it in my 2 jaw chuck (bench vice) and machined it out to fit the pinion with my manual milling cutter (half round file).
Then mounted the pinion and bearing retainer, fitted the diff and 850 diff housing.
The original pinion was a 17 tooth and was smaller than the locking tab for the pinion.
Before:


With 2.95:1 pinion and crown wheel.


Now that it all seems to work OK, I will completely strip the gearbox for a good clean and check and replace anything necessary.

P.S.
What is the trick to removing the speedo drive gear from the housing.
Mine is stuck got it out

Can I borrow a set of "tools" to remove the first motion shaft roller bearing (I've removed the circlip) and then the tool to remove the 3rd motion shaft.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Made up a puller for the 1st motion shaft nose bearing this afternoon from the How To, worked a treat.
Will remove the main shaft tomorrow afternoon.

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Dilemma resolved

Finally completed the assembly of my 4 synchro box with 850 direct change gear lever.
It shifts really positively and with a relatively short travel.
Also fitted a central oil pickup while I was at it. Needed a bit of bending to clear the revers selector arm though.
I removed the dowels for the diff housing but the bearings locations still didn't quite line up so I drilled out the stud holes 1/64" to allow it to move a bit more and then it was all sweet.
Fitted the side covers, adjusted the shims for the preload, then in with the pot joints.

Now I just need to pull the engine out

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

The current centre oil pickups all seem to need a slight bend to clear the reverse selector arm in a non-rodchange 4 synchro box.
I sit them in the vice (with alloy jaw protectors) and squeeze gently.
If you don't do this, the selector arm wears through the strainer mesh.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes Kev
Exactly what was going to happen. Bit of a bend in the vice and now it clears.

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Nice to see the How too being used