Don't use one of those accordian-type hoses for the bypass hose. They don't last, and they're expensive. Instead, just get a length of ordinary heater hose (like 4cm worth), spray the pipe ends with some WD40 and push the new piece in with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Sound advice

I regard the water pump as a comsumable item. When ever the radiator comes out I spend an extra $40 on a new pump.
Here is a photo of one I pulled off a few months ago. And the car wasn't overheating.

Very useful, thank you. So is it OK to use a trolley jack under the sump to lift the engine?

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1965 Austin Cooper 998 (UK built)
1963 Austin Countryman woodie

Personally I wouldn't, but many people do. Best to jack it up from the subframe just next to the sump, and if you can, use a piece of wood to spread the load. Some people use a piece of wood to spread the load and jack from the sump, but it's not an issue of the jack damaging the sump, it's an issue of breaking your engine mounts and sending the engine though your bonnet that's the issue.

I think lefty might mean with this radiator removal method. Yes, once the engine mount is undone at one end the jack tilts the engine up.

A similar method can be used at the clutch end, to be able to remove the clutch cover.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Oh, yep. As you were

If you do replace the water pump, you can easily replace the bypass hose at the same time. Take note of the bypass hose clamps orientation and reinstall the same way. Makes it easier with a stubby screwdriver to retention later on. And use a length of half inch heater hose instead of the ribbed type, they split easy.

thank you, all good.

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1965 Austin Cooper 998 (UK built)
1963 Austin Countryman woodie

Mine looked like that to but with 3 blades facing the bearing and it wasn't over heating either stuffed if I don't know why

The pump was there for a while as it had the blue paint on it the previous owner sprayed the engine in

I still have the pump to show people who don't believe me when I tell them

I'm about to perform the easy radiator removal too. I have some probably silly questions before I dive in.
1. Do you need to remove the remote gear change on a cooper s before tilting the engine?
2. The engine mount bolts that you remove - are they the 2 bolts you can see under the subframe, on the angle?
3. My car has a metal fan, looks okay. I also have a new 11 blade plastic new one. Which one should I use?
4. I guess you remove both the bottom and top hoses prior to lifting the engine?
5. When installing the new water pump, do you need gasket glue on the gasket?

Thanks in advance.

Mat

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S

the bypass hose is not as bad as you think.

I did mine then 2 weeks later did the water pump and radiator and realized it it would have been much easier then
but it still wasn't that hard

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1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

I have done a bipass hose, albeit 30 years ago. I remember it because it wasn't fun.
My (silly) questions related to the radiator removal.
Cheers
Mat

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S

1. I didn't disconnect the rod change on the deluxe gearbox.
2.That's the two bolts yes.
3.I left the metal fan on and don't experience any over-heating.
4.Remove the bottom hose from the water pump only and the top hose from the thermostat only, much easier re-installing this way as well.
5.I used Loctite aviation #3 gasket glue.

cheers and good luck

Thanks minimate, looking forward to getting into it now!

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S