If you have them already they are more reliable than the rubber cross universals, and they are easy to unbolt to get the driveshafts out if you need to. They are also nice and strong.

Pot joints are a smoother universal joint (constant-velocity) and don't need the larger bore diff side covers the hardy spicers do.

IMO:
Rubber cross joints - Use them if you have to
Hardy Spicer - Use them if you have them
Pot joints - best on a cost and performance basis

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If you need to buy Hardy Spicers, the only cheap bit is the U/J itself.

Re the S side covers (which are getting scarcer), I can machine thick Oz made side covers to fit the S bushes (also expensive now) and seals.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i have plenty of "S" final drive covers here
& we also have plenty of the thicker std mini ones if you want the thick ones are much better to machine than the std ones,

lots of people don`t realize there are thick-wall mini final drive covers
Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I swapped the rubber joints for the MS QL5000 conversion, which uses a conventional Hardy Spicer joint with needle bearings, fitted with 4 nylon cups. Not sure if MS still has them in stock.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

They were NLA for a while Karcraft has them listed currently. p/no QL5000.

http://www.karcraft.com.au, ask for a catalog on pdf.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

MKO as well - http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... type-pair/

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Is this the same conversion even if you have drums on the front?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Yes makes no difference, driveshafts are the same regardless of CV used.
Hardy Spicers fit on 850-Deluxe-Mini K driveshafts, length is slightly different to S ones but fit the same.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

you can use Morris 1500 diff covers too. Just a little machine and works a treat.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

If your drive shaft ends are in reasonable condition I recommend looking at aluminium bearing housings, cheaper option too.

http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/ ... ts_id=1409


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe - members gallery
1970 Morris Cooper S - members gallery
Mini's I grew up with
Slot car couch

Those look good, I looked at getting them made locally a year or so ago but cost was not competitive with QL5000.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just resurrecting this post.

Have had a scrounge in the shed spare part division, have found 2 complete pot joints and 2 drive shafts. What more do I need to convert over from rubber universal joints. Do I need to change the diff output shafts and the diff covers.

Diff output shafts are different. Pot joint ones have a circlip to hold the "pot" on the output shaft
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/DAM3114.aspx
Diff covers are the same

Make sure that the driveshafts you have match the pot joints. The pot joint driveshafts aren't compatible with the rubber uni or Hardy Spicer couplings. There should also be a long and short driveshaft

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I certainly didn't. which part is thicker? The material atound where the seal goes?

The right one (off a rod change box) has thicker walls, both are "small bore" diff covers for rubber cross/pot joints

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