Yep I sure am. Well that's a shame if it's not pocketed as I also have a 1275 motor which needs a rebuild. I could of done the head on that and used it. Well it doesn't seem like the Pistons have any movement, so that's a good thing. There does seem to be a lip at the top of the bore, its about 5mm down, its black could it just be carbon build up? Haven't had a chance to check anything else.

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Depending on what you hope to do with the car, I would be tempted to just clean up the head/block faces, bung in a new head gasket and try it out in the car.

From what you (I:) can see in the photos, it looks "OK". The presence (or not:) of a lip at the top of each bore is a good indicator of condition IMHO.

When you clean the block face, raise each piston to TDC wipe a smear of vaseline around the piston/block gap to stop carbon falling down the gap and use something soft (NOT a screwdriver etc:) to move the carbon. A bit of hardwood or a hard plastic scraper is good. Be very careful not to use anything too abrasive - especially between the cylinders.

It looks at least a good as my Daughters "school car" and that lasted a year before (Dad:( burnt a valve so was up for the rebuild...

While you have it out its worth checking the clutch. Use a lever on the clutch arm and check that you can turn the engine by hand with it in gear without the diff outputs moving. Also, once you have the head buttoned down give the water-ways a good flush with a hose..

Just my 2 cents worth ..

Cheers, Ian

Thanks ian, some helpful info there. The plan with the motor is just to get the car drivable and back on the road. I've got a 1275 that was originally in the car, but it was blowing smoke and really needs a full rebuild. So if I can get this 1100 going cheap, then it only has to last till I rebuild the 1275. Well that's the plan anyway [WINKING FACE]

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Looks reasonable... the head between 2/3/may have has a gasket leak but seems a close call.

1: Clean the block face but dont use an abrasive, itll get in the bores or galleries and kill something. try a bronze brush and acetone. Thats all you need to do to the block. Cylinder wear is something you'll need to live with. Leave the pistons, your just getting a better comp.

2: The head you can clean a little more aggressively. Place 120 emery strip in a flat file and draw file at 45 degree angle across the head, end to end, then swap ends and repeat 45 overlapping the other direction, wipe down with acetone. That will clean the head surface.
(Probably the biggest improvement will be cleaning the valves of built up crud on the back side. On the cheap you can pull them, wire brush them and refit, no fuss)

3: New head gasket and reassemble

4: Test drive hard for an hour then re-tighten head.

Thanks besser! More good info! When you say bronze brush do you mean a brass wire brush? Is there also anything I should do with the values so I can unleaded fuel?
Hopefully I'll get back to working on it by the end of the week! Cheers!

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Yes Brass .... my bad, the point is to use a softer material and not delay in one spot. The danger of what you do is the introduction of foreign material into the engine it'll grind away your engine/gearbox during operation. Since you're using the engine temporarily, the level of "cleaning" need be a balance between improvement and risk avoidance. I put the valve cleaning in brackets, thinking not to bother, the stem seals are probably useless by now, you risk miss stepping, so add to your head gasket purchase valve stem seals if your going that way.
Short term I'd not worry about the hardened valve seat so unleaded is fine, with standard compression and good cooling it'll last long enough, alternatively use a fuel additive.

As soon as you start pumping dollars into the engine you can disregard all my suggestions. With money I'd start with a 202 head or 295 rebuilt then when the bottom end pops nasty fumes, a re-machined bottom end/cam/high comp $$$$. So just get the 1275 rebuilt and tootle the 1100 around.

Mate with all due respect, it sounds like you are a novice engine builder and that's all good but we should stick to the absolute basics for now, instead of getting you into something that needs a lot more guidance to do it properly. There are thousands of people who can put a mini engine together, but very few who can actually build one properly. My advice is, put it back together, hook the thing up and start it. If it runs well its a good runner. Job done. Spend your time and money on the 1275 you have. If you really want to build that one up yourself ask a stack of questions BEFORE you pull it down, so you have some idea of a plan of attack.
I don't mean to pee on your parade and mean no disrespect, but I don't want to see you to play with something and then cause more trouble for yourself later.
G

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Well the 1100's already pulled apart and a new head gasket will throw the rocker clearance, safe to say you're in the game.

All good guys, I know where your coming from. In hindsight I shouldn't have pulled it apart, but it's done now. Rebuilding engines is something I want to learn, I've rebuilt most stuff on the cars in the past, just not engines or gearboxes. I'll give this one ago anyway, I'll get the vrs kit and put it back together and see how I go. Next question. The motor didn't come with a carby, I originally I was thinking I'll just put the webber on from the 1275, but with 36 chokes I don't think it will work. So what carby do I need to find for this 1100?

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