Yes-thanks Doug, great information and very informative!!

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Just had a detailed read of Doug's service bulletins- as Kevin suggested, the best course of action is to modify the 22G68 box to fit the pudding stirrer diff housing onto it!!
It's a bit unfortunate as I'd have liked to keep the original box but at least the gears won't grind when i drive the car!!
Thanks
Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

The honourable Mr Prescott sure had an eloquent writing style!
It is hard to imagine today's service managers worrying about "maximum customer satisfaction"!

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I also have a 4 synchro 22G1128 box that i was saving for another project.
I've decided that this might be the best option if the pudding stirrer diff housing will fit onto it!!
Has anyone done this before?
was it fairly straightforward?
does anything need to be modified or does the diff housing just bolt-on?
Cheers
Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

Yes it will fit. However, these diff housings were machined with each box, they are not designed to be interchangeable.
1. You may have to remove the 2 dowels to align it.
2. You may also need to drill all the stud holes out, as I did recently by 1/16" (are not usually this far out though) to align bearing housing halves.
3. Bolt the housing on lightly with 2 diff bearings in, and measure the gap between the flanges. If lucky, they are parallel. If uneven you will need to have the housing face machined. Or try another housing if available.
4. Gap between flanges- note the new black gaskets are .011" thick! Original ones were half this. They close down a few thou when case is assembled.
In my case, the flange gap was under .002" all round, so I will use Loctite 515 and no paper gaskets. So bearings are held tight.
You don't want the bearings loose or they will spin and wear the shims.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the detailed reply Kevin. I'll need to have a think about the 4 synchro option. I was hoping the lot would just bolt together without machining/drilling. I found a 3 synchro 22G68 box with a pudding stirrer diff housing already attached in my stash of bits last night (forgot I had it as I bought it a few years ago and it was tucked away in a cupboard). I may use this as I had planned to use the 4 synchro box for my wife's project (Monty, a plum crazy purple "67 Deluxe). Stayed tuned. Cheers Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)

I think it's worth trying the 850 housing on the 4 synchro or 22G68 boxes, sometimes they fit straight on no problemo. Other times not, as I detailed above.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I did what the Doc said with a 22G1128 and 850 diff housing.
I only needed to drill out the stud holes a little pit. More of a "clean up" than anything.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90443&start=0

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !