by your description it sounds like the bearing surface of the CV is not concentric and parallel to the CV and Spline.

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I would agree, that is exactly as it would seem.

But after replacing CV joints, bearings and hubs several times then I can't imagine that it would remain the same.

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4age 20V powered Mini

You mentioned in the original post that you've changed the drive flanges (that bolt up to the 8.4" disks), is that correct? What about the tapered washers that pull up the CV joint?

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Yes, I purchased new drive flanges in case the inner face had been worn. I have also replaced the tapered washer with different used items and recently with new ones.

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4age 20V powered Mini

On some new CV stock the outer shaft with the thread can be bigger than ideal for tapered split washer and or poorly machined with a curved surface where the shaft meets the vertical side of the splined section of the CV - and the tapered washer gets hung up -so allows movement despite being tight,. Sometimes all that is needed is to spread the tapered washer a little or file/dremel the rounded section between outer thread and spline section. Test method is to eyeball the tapered washer seating flush against CV generally on the bare CV- ( not sure if it is an imprecise imperial to metric conversion issue or a machining type of fault)

edited fot clarity

I'll definitely be looking out for all these types of things when I have to assembly again!

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4age 20V powered Mini

As mentioned previously, bent drive-shafts? Check by fully stripping & rolling them along a flat surface, e.g. wife's new dining room table.

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Have you tried a different pair of wheels. The fact that they a re 'balanced' doesn't mean theyre round. Also, the tyres could be flat spotted from sitting and/or casing damage or faults.

Hi Guys,

Had another set of eyes come around for a look at the weekend. He couldn't see anything obviously incorrect in the assembly of the hub
and also suggested stripping down to check driveshafts and also look at inner CV/differential.

So I stripped down the hubs, the driveshafts look to be okay but I am sending to machine shop to check for sure.

Also built up hubs again without driveshafts (used current and new CV joint) and both seemed to assemble okay and also had about 4-5 thou runout,
which I thought seemed acceptable. The wheel studs also seemed to be running around pretty true.
I did compare the current CVs against new ones and noticed that (as FNQ suggested above) the shaft between the spline and thread was different.
The current CVs had a taper where the new CV was parallel. The split cone washer had definitely been compressed onto the tapered part of the shaft.
With the new CV joint the split cone washer would not even pass over the should beneath the thread. Definitely something to keep an eye on.

Whilst under the car I also noticed that there is some play in the differential which could be causing the inner CV joint to run out. I am investigating this further.

I have tried various sets of rims/tyres, and even had a brand new set too!

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4age 20V powered Mini

Hi Dick,

I've been intrigued be this. I can't offer any suggestions, but can I ask whether or not it's worse when turning? Or does it go away? Or is it constant?

My thoughts are if it varies with turning input it would be diff -> CV joint related. Whereas if it's constant, then it may be hub -> wheel related.

All the best with getting to the bottom of this.

Cheers,
Fred

maybe try with no driveshaft, just the CV...

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mini billy kart!

helps to have big rust holes in the floor, need your tetanus up-to-date though

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OK, well I got towed down the road yesterday without driveshafts. Only at lowish speed but the bobbing sensation didn't seem to be there. I had also clocked the discs and drive flanges and they seemed very true. I also had my driveshafts checked for true and they were pretty good too. So I can only assume that it is something to do with the diff so my next job is going to be to take the engine & gearbox out and have a look.

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4age 20V powered Mini

interesting!

I'd think about taking the wheels off (or leaving the driveshafts out) putting it in 1st gear with the engine idling and watch what the inner CVs are doing.

If you get a helper to work the clutch you can hold either side in turn to see/feel where its doing funny things

If you put the driveshafts back in, you can do fun tricks like have someone put their foot on the brake while you clamp the flexible line then it'll stay locked when they release the brake, or put the wheels on and stop them with your foot

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