Bought a bare Rover front cut on the weekend
Now to remove the useless bits

Day one of fixing the rust in the doors of the deluxe. The previous owner had removed the door pockets and lost them so the rust holes at the bottom were painfully obvious to the roadworthy guys and I was told to patch them.

Plan A was to get them patched by a local smash repairs place, but even saying "it doesn't have to look good, just be roadworthy" the rough quote was $350 - $400 per door.
Plan B was to bolt on another pair but good ones are a bit scarce.
So it was on with Plan C, welding in my own patches.

I got a donor door to provide the metal and chopped it into sections. Disconnected the battery, turned the MIG down to the lowest setting and hooked into it. My welding is pretty crappy but just up to the job and I eventually got most of the holes filled or covered. I just took it easy, weld a bit, blow out the burning paint, weld a bit more, blow out more flames. Fortunately there is enough of a gap between the inner skin and the outer that the heat didn't affect the paint on the outside. By the time I had ground down the worst of my welding it didn't look too bad and once it gets a good coat of primer and some Holts "doesn't quite match your colour" from a spray can it should get the nod.

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66 Deluxe, 07 Cooper

Roadworthy items continue.
Hydro pumped up - done.
Inner CV joint U bolt tighten - done.
Degrease engine - done
Brake pipe rubbing on CV boot - done
Tie Rod End Bolt tighten - done. (thanks for the advice doc)
Wheel Bearing. Don't have the right tools. Mechanic
Rear spacers. Out 15 mins before I leave for the inspection. Tyres will be pumped to 35 psi 10 mins before inspection. Back in 10 mins after inspection. Temporary until I get a Cooper rear drum kit in a few weeks.
Waiting on the new door mirror from the mini king.

Hopefully passed on Wed/Thurs.

C&B,
Mark.

Replaced my aftermarket gear knob with the original one...aftermarket leather all worn off and the badge keeps falling out.

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Old new rack taken out.

New old rack now sitting in ready to be fitted.

Gotta be done by Thursday arvo for a Friday wheel alignment and Sunday cruise!

Max can bring that new POS UK rack along on the run, I may be able to use a tierod off it to fix your original Rover rack.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good idea doc!

I shall bag it up and chuck it in the back.

Drove it around and around and around the block to make sure it will make the journey to Regency tomorrow to get rego.... Should be OK taking the Bro in law incase I have to push.

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spent basically all day on the wheel alignemt machine sorting the hillclimb special,,, making left & right hand threaded steering tie-rods & making it all point where i want it to

edit,,, tomorow will be spent on the rear end of it doing similar things

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Nothing. Apart from racking my brains on how to make an SU have a flat slide throttle

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

Swore at it and kicked it!!

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

I have seen a bit on slide throttles over the years. The hard bit is to stop the throttle from sticking from the full vacuum in the shut position. This is why most race slide throttles have a idle hole drilled in the middle of them.
They usually run on little rollers behind the slide to reduce friction. It is just a matter of machining a very accurate housing with a couple of tracks for the rollers and stick the slide in the middle.

You could always do what they do on F1 cars and fit the far superior butterfly throttles.

Put the rack doc rebuilt in.

Put the thin back together and took it for a quick test run, 100x better...just need a wheel alignment (Has massive massive toe out) and I am back on the road!!

I know they'r troublesome - but hey, I need smething to play

I was thinking about some industrial roller linear guides

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No speakers, no bodykits, no six-inch spacers, no spak filler, no bullshit

Was able to track down a harmonic dampner.

Pulled out the radiator (again - but still no quicker). Trouble is the old tin crank pulley that I had off only a few weeks ago didn't want to come off.

Finally sorted - including red loctite and 75 foot pounds.

All back together again.

Next job is to instal the dual relay for the H4 lights.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke