Picked up a 12G202 head today for free from a mate of mine, he'd been saving for a project he been doing a few years ago but ended up using a different one instead.

Spent this afternoon and evening giving it bit of a clean and stripping the valves, colletts, springs and caps off of it. Out of the 16 valve springs I had from the two heads I picked out 8 that were within height spec (2 were Really short at least by 3mm. They were from the head that I pulled of the old girl too), I thought it a little weird.

Taking it to be reconditioned tomorrow (new guides etc) and to have a little shaved off the head surface Then on the weekend put it all back together again and hope it stops the smoking on start up, and maybe get a little more Varoom out of the engine.. Maybe...

i finally cleaned my mini fromm all the hay dust that was in it!

looks like a new one again.


....still havent changed the wheel from hay though

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

Not today but last weekend - pulled out the two sets of seat covers (original MK1 and a later version) and started measureing and checking how they went together, took photos - ordered a 'walking foot' for the wife's sewing machine without telling her

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Took the engine out of the passenger side footwell, sat in the passenger seat that was out of the car and realised how much better it was than the drivers seat.

Swapped them over, i sit much higher now since my bums not on the floor.



also

Post number 404 - Post not found,

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You're so square
Baby I don't care

Picked up Rover EFI fuel tank from Josh at miniimports, (nice guy), for my EFI conversion project. Dropped in to Clark Rubber and got some rubber the bonnet channel... not 100% happy with it as the bonnet sit's up slightly at the rear. Maybe it will bed in? Bonnet doesn't vibrate though!

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

removed a door skin...yep that's all

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one van, one mini s, one knitted cardigan

removed the head and removed all the valve springs to check on a valve stem seal issue.

replaced 8 valve stem seals and reassembled the head on the engine.

drilled and tapped the clutch housing for the breather.

remounted the clutch housing and fitted the flywheel and clutch.

full day again tomorrow, i plan on dropping the new donk in friday night along with a few stiff scotch's to assist with the installation

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

Tried to get some thinner section rubber for the bonnet channel from Clark Rubber... no go they said that hey don't stock all the item's as shown on their Web site!

Have noticed that the idle is a bit rough, so had a poke around and found that the vacuum take off fitting for the power booster was loose and leaking air. Car now idles puuuurfect and the brake pedal is better also.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Took the 1412 stroker for a run to work with the Toyota PCV valve on (the right way round now). All good, no oil leaks, idles OK, got some vacuum in the rocker cover with cap off and hand over it. NO MORE SMOKESCREEN when I nail it.
RIP Cooper S PCV valve....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Put a new rubber seat diaphragm into the drivers seat. What a pain in the @$$ that was. At least I'll be sitting off the floor now.

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1970 Mini K

so what is the point of the pcv? does it achieve any power?

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one van, one mini s, one knitted cardigan

It is called Positive Crankcase Ventilation for a reason:

1. It gets rid of any smelly fumes from the breather. Important in a road car IMO, less so in a racer.
2. It avoids condensation aka `mayo' in the rocker cover in cold weather.
3. It reduces oil leaks through seals etc by maintaining a partial vacuum in the crankcase.

All the 1275s came with a version of it, likewise the late 998s in Clubbies. Most used a vacuum port on the SU carby for this.
But the Cooper S and Morris 1100S had a `Smiths' PCV valve into the inlet manifold, this is what I replaced. It was needlessly complex compared to a modern PCV valve.

Catch cans are smelly on a road car, Bling breather filters just block with oil and sludge, then don't work. Strictly for the Bling tragics.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Only way to go!

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Original hose clamps don't judge me. They love me for who I am.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I WAS ONLY SUPPOSED TO BLOW THE BLOODY DOORS OFF!

...so that's what I did, and will be prepping them for blasting.

Q1. Will this bracket come out without removing the inner skin?



Q2. The chrome strip along the pocket refuses to move, tricks/best way to get it off so it's in good enough condition to go back on?

Q3. If I was to be adventurous and wanted to put power locks/windows in, I'm assuming I'm going to need to cut the skin, where/how is the best way to cut the inside skin?


Q4. (should have been Q1) What's the best way/process to get everything out and off the door?

the one I haven't go in to yet.


LAST Q. It sounds like there's half the outback shaking around in my rear doors (van). Best way/process to get that out? take off outer skin? Cut the bottom off and weld back on? They're in decent nick so i prefer not to ugly them up cutting in random places.