Metalfab_101 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
The problem with all these current crop of `clicker' wrenches is they rely on a spring. Springs do lose tension (particularly cheapo Chinese etc ones) and will throw the calibration way out. And there's no easy way to check it without sending to a lab & paying $$$.
A bendy bar type (eg W&B, Ritch, even a Taiwanese scale & pointer one)has got to be more accurate, IMO.
I use one to roughly check my `clicky' Kinchrome wrench, which is within 5 lbs/ft by this test.

BTW if Aaron really had got them to 55lb/ft the stock 3/8" studs would probably break, according to my favourite engine builder.
How do you use one to test the other Kev? Set both to the same setting then tighten a bolt with the good one, then try the 'clicky' one?
I have an old W&B that was my Dad's. I suspect he had it since his apprentice days working on Minis back in the 60s/70s, and am pertty sure it's been rattled around in numerous tool boxes since (not a good thing for a torque wrench). I want to make sure it's not too far out of spec.
A W&B is good but only works in a RH fashion.
My Cheapo Taiwanese one works both ways, scaled in both directions to 150 lb/ft....
So, I put a 12 point socket on the Kinchrome one that will just fit the 1/2" square drive on the old one, I join them together.
Then I hold the Kinchrome clicky one in the vice, set it to 20-30-40-50 etc in turn, and read off the scale of the cheapo when it clicks...
<edit>
You can do this with any pair of torque wrenches, as you are effectively turning them clockwise.. I just realised this fact, hence the edit..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.
