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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 11:13 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Townsville Nth QLD
Hey doc, I reckon youd be a shitload safer just chilling the inserts in Dry Ice(Co2). Using liquid nitrogen can make them bloody brittle if yer not careful. they might not be quite as tight, but they will still give ya a good interference fit.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:03 am 
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Yeah if I do them myself I WILL use dry ice.
But toolmakers have this dude who visits with a liquid N2 truck... so he used him :wink:
Interference fit was only 3 or 4 thou. He warmed the head up, too.
I don't believe in pressing them in, or bashing 'em... :(

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:30 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
I am running Mobile 8000 with flashlube and it's fantastic... I will try BP Ultimate next and report back...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 4:16 pm 
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Location: Penrith, NSW
I use Mobil 8000 in the Trueno.......

Afer having used all the others, it gives the best mileage :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:58 pm
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Location: North Brisbane
I never use SHELL OPTIMAX, from past experiences i have found that it "GOES OFF" (meaning basically, less effective) in a steel tank if it sits for any length of time! that has been my experience with the stuff!

oh yeah i usually use synergy 8000 or BP Premium!

Rohan

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 Post subject: K Line
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 5:33 pm 
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Minimad wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
What do people charge here to fit inserts? Did my 1275A+ for nix. I might go into this business... Minis only, of course! :lol:


Just had a 12G295 head done (don't ask!!)

About $22 each insert.

I had both intake and exhaust done, head decked, chambers CC'ed, 1275 valve guides machined and inserted, and then had them K lined......total cost $484. (not including the valve guides, valves or anything.....Just machining :shock: )

Total bill........ well over $800 for a remanifactured standard head and rocker gear :roll:

Just like new...but unleaded

Minimad


Someone I know bent a valve and a pushrod after fitting K Lines. NOT saying they were the cause, under investigation, but the engine had been very reliable before that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:01 pm 
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Location: Gold Coast
drmini in aust wrote:
Yeah if I do them myself I WILL use dry ice.
But toolmakers have this dude who visits with a liquid N2 truck... so he used him :wink:
Interference fit was only 3 or 4 thou. He warmed the head up, too.
I don't believe in pressing them in, or bashing 'em... :(


My mate is one of those guys. I went with him to a truck workshop and we dropped new cylinder sleeves into big refigerator truck...it was pretty cool.

As long as you get them to slide in right the first time you don't generally have any problems. I wouldn't worry about it making them too brittle unless you dropped 'em.

N2(l) is pretty cool stuff. Pour some in your mates stubby cooler and watch their beer freeze --- frozen foam spews out the top. Only do it to VB tinnies though.


dewey

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:24 pm 
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Location: sthn highlands nsw
optimax for me with valve master

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 7:44 pm 
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people told me optimax was good mainly for fuel injected engines.
it shouldnt be used for motorbikes or carbies
due to its rather high density (heavier, harder to evapourate)

i switched over to BP ulitmate and it starts almost first time round.

i havent tried Mobil 8000 will try soon

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 Post subject: Re: K Line
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:23 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Someone I know bent a valve and a pushrod after fitting K Lines. NOT saying they were the cause, under investigation, but the engine had been very reliable before that.


The engineering firm that I use usually just K line the old valve guides, and then bore them to suit the old valves. So you can take up a little wear on the old valves......But I was most uninpressed as I put brand new guides AND valves in this head, the they went and K lined them anyway :x

They said they were so used to just k lining every head that came though the door, that they didn't give mine a second thought :cry:

Managed to get some money off the job anyway.....souldn't complain. I will never need to touch it again :wink:

Minimad

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:28 pm 
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Dunno about K-liners, but I've found the MiniSpares bronze guides do close up a bit after fitting and running. I had one grab an exhaust valve on mine, very gently.. just enought to start a burn mark on the valve.
Cast iron guides go straight in with new valves, no reaming, no worries- but I now always ream bronze guides after fitting. Even though the valves will (just) fit in without it.

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 Post subject: All fuel "goes off"
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:38 pm 
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MINIRO wrote:
I never use SHELL OPTIMAX, from past experiences i have found that it "GOES OFF" (meaning basically, less effective) in a steel tank if it sits for any length of time! that has been my experience with the stuff!

oh yeah i usually use synergy 8000 or BP Premium!

Rohan


All fuel starts losing its RON as soon as it leaves the refinery.

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 Post subject: Reamed!!!
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:44 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Dunno about K-liners, but I've found the MiniSpares bronze guides do close up a bit after fitting and running. I had one grab an exhaust valve on mine, very gently.. just enought to start a burn mark on the valve.
Cast iron guides go straight in with new valves, no reaming, no worries- but I now always ream bronze guides after fitting. Even though the valves will (just) fit in without it.


Hey Doc, just out of interest, how much clearance do you ream in?? and any change for a racing head?

The suspician is that a K Line nipped the valve but as I said under investigation.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 8:47 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Clearance is in the valve stems, which are always made slightly U/S.
I use a 9/32" solid reamer.

I've run it to 8,000 a few times since around Wakefield Pk- no worries... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Mini Maths
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:07 pm 
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PhildoD wrote:
I use Flashlube. Got me one of the little bottles first, and got a big bottle. Great to use as a measure. 50 ml bottle does 50L. Half a little bottle a tank :-) .


Flashlube = one millilitre per litre

Mini Fuel Tank, 5.5 Gallons/24.97 Litres

Therefore, half 50ml bottle is about right!!

clever aye!! :lol:

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