Mine cost absolutely zip to make, even the 2 s/h hoses- which came off Jerry the Clubby van.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Mine cost absolutely zip to make, even the brand new hose and fittings- which came from the Lithgow Loco shed.

Yeah I know what you mean, I did my time in NSWGR...
My power hacksaw has a countershaft made from a Detroit 6/110 water pump shaft, courtesy of railmotor workshop, Eveleigh....
And the rest of the saw I made at Rolling Stock workshops, Chullora...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool, the Docs and Morris 1100 pumps seem to be the much easier and cheaper option of connector. I take it the 300 psi coming from the pump is enough to push the valve in itself. I tried it with about 120 psi from a compressor and that wasn't enough. I found someone that would sell me a tractor tyre nozzle for filling tyres with water, but $60 I think is a bit much, especially if I can just use a valve cap.

Steve.

Forgot to add- to seal my `valve cap' type connector, just use the rubber ring that's inside any metal valve cap.
They handle the 300psi, but don't last forever.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Diecast and SKSSGN.

I don't think Schrader Automotive exists anymore. Couldn't find them with a White pages search. I am not sure but I think they may be part of the Parker Hannifan group now. Anybody know for sure?

Blackwoods seem to be the best option for the Schrader T connector.

I like to apply the KISS principle to most things but by using the T connector and a check valve with the master cylinder you can have much better control over the air bleeding and height adjustment. My idea is to use these in conjunction with a drain valve between the check valve and the connector so that air bleeding and height adjustment is carried out by opening the drain valve. A lot less mess as well as the drain would go to a container.
Well that's my theory anyway.

Thanks again
RonR

I'm absorbing all this valuable info, but hydro fluid is more or less alcohol and water, no? So a bit splashed over the driveway just cleans it up a bit? Could be handy...

Any home made recipes for hydro fluid, or should I try and track down some approved BLMC stuff?

The guy that came and filled mine up with a genuine BMC hyro pump just used straight radiator coolant stuff (not mixed with water) presumably for the anti corrosion properties.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

In the US it's common to just use a mix of 50% glycol antifreeze, and water.
Original stuff had some alcohol & other stuff in it, somebody on here posted the recipe a while back.
I just buy the proper hydro fluid, from Karcraft.
$25.79 for a 4L tin. Will last you years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Penrite used to make Hydro fluid but they have discontinued it.
But they have the recipe on their webpage!
They say 33% Premium AFAB (Anti Freeze Anti Boil) in water.

I have used anti freeze in the past.

yeah, I posted the recipe, can't remember it though - basically all alcohol, some rust inhibitor and a bittering agent to stop the BMC mechanics drinking it. I had a few other recipes too, they were all basically glycol antifreeze and water

I use 50/50 antifreeze and water, I reckon next time I flush it I'll use 100% antifreeze and see how it goes with a slightly higher viscosity. I bought castrol antifreeze with the highest percentage of glycol I could find - about 95% I think, and all modern antifreezes have a rust inhibitor in them, so it's what we want

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Ron R,

The tpiece adapter is called a Parker Gas Chuck. Call Parker and ask them. Mine cost $99 a year ago, took 2 days to arrive. Very good.

I'll search for the reciept at home tonight if you would like.

Only problem is that if you use the t piece to open the valve when trying to pump up, it won't seal between strokes, and the fluid simply comes out again, into the pump (grease gun in my case.). For letting the suspension down it is ideal! It also lets you screw the attachment on without having to twist the entire pump around!

I got the tractor tyre valve too ($25 from local tyre place brand new) but had trouble getting adapters and then broke it in the vice. So I bit the bullet and bought this!

On another note, I used a chrome grease gun (30 bucks from supercheap) so it is Bling as well!!

Cheers
matt

Matt68,

Thanks for that info. Will contact Parker or Blackwoods etc.
You need the check valve to prevent the fluid flowing back out if you use the gas chuck.
There's a lot to be said for using the Schrader valve as the check valve as DRMINI says, but it can be messy and you don't have as much control over releasing fluid or air.
I'm trying to come up with a simple idea for a vacuum pump as well using the same connector. I may be able to use another master cylinder but with the seals reversed to use as a vacuum pump. Don't know if it will work though.

Regards
RonR

One advantage I've found using the stock Schrader valve as a check, is it's quite apparent if it has a slow leak. The lever on the MC will move up, slowly...

It's common for these `tyre valves' to leak if undisturbed for years- I'd buy a couple in case, BEFORE you start pumping...

We needed 2 new ones on Brad's `matic pumpup the other week.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sorry to bring up this old post again, but I just wanted to say thanks to Drmini once again. I made my hydro pump with great advice from the Dr and it worked with no problems at all. Amazed at how easy it was once the air was bled out of the line. It cost the right price to make too, zero $. Thanks again Doc and to everyone else with all their great ideas.
Steve.