Not sure what they would have meant either. The product Bob means is Hylomar, which is the blue sealant available as a spray or in a jar with brush. It is what the BMC works team and Rolls Royce used to use on paper gaskets (like the heater outlet, water pump etc). I agree it is not needed for the head gasket.

The turbo gasket from Karcraft is the one most people recommend - BK450 I think from memory (although the Doc will know for sure).

Make sure you follow the manual re torquing the head with a good quality tension wrench.
KB

yes thats it hylomar so i now have abottle of that stuff i dont need so anyone who finds a use for it feel free to ask and you can go for it
i will be fitting the gasket and the head on thursday cant tomorro origins on i may or may not get to adjust everything that may have to wait till the weekend
so just to clarify i only need normal gasket goo for the thermo housing gasket the heat resistant kind from supercrap will do?? the rest is dry fitted and torque then re torqued after 100 kms

cheers bob

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1978 NUGGET GOLD 1275 LS

If the Hylomar is the bottle type rather than the spray, you should be able to use it on the thermostat housing and heater outlet gaskets (if you took it off during the head service?); check the instructions on it, otherwise I use a brown one from Supercheap (name escapes me and it's too cold to go out to the garage now - but stagg rings a bell, comes in a yellow and red tube) but any suitable goo should work.

The head gasket should be dry though, and correctly torqued, and retorqued after 100kms or so. someone once told me it is not the actual distance that matters, more that the car has been allowed to warm up and cool down several times in succession and that is usually after a few days driving, hence the couple of hundred kays logic. Also not worth trying to put any goo on the manifold gasket in my opinion, that should also be dry.

KB

Yes - thats about right
The thermostat housing and the heater outlet gaskests seal better with a touch of gasket sealant.

its a pity that you dont have somebody close that will give you an hour to help you do the head for the first time.

Important points - tighten the head bolts/ studs down in sequence as described in the manual. Take the tension down in stages that is - do all the bolts in sequence to 20 foot pounds - then do all in sequence to 40 foot pounds and then finally do all in sequence to the final tension. I cant speak newtons or what ever so its foot pounds for me.

well i nearly had good news but then i f#$%ed up
everthing went back together sweet as did the rocker clearance check it double check it was good got all the hoses back on and the carby on and bolted together
then my old man was getting the rocker cover and the gasket ready so i thought why hes doing that il put the accelarater cable and choke cable back on bad idea shouldve waited till the rocker cover was on
as i was trying to push the small split pin throught the hole to hold the accelerater cable in it slip from my fingers and landed on the head and fell in the push rod hole
so i know have a split pin in the head that i cant reach ive tried magnets and small tweezers EVERYTHING cant get it out so now i have to remove the rocker assemblt and head again and just hope that as i do this it doesnt fall even further down and i cant get it so this is my delemer and if any one can solve it for me that would be great the old man reckons to just leave it and itll fall through and be fine but i dont want to risk it unless i can be sure itll be ok im open to suggestions

also i am missing a rocker cover bolt it was on the head when i put it in and dont know wether it got lost there
how hard is it it to get new ones

cheers

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1978 NUGGET GOLD 1275 LS

Hell, my engine jobs usually mean bits left over not bits lost.

About your split pin - logic says pull the motor out and separate the gearbox from the block and recover the split pin.

However, thats not really on. Big expense and big effort. Split pins are quite soft metal and quite (but not guarantteed) to get caught in mechanical parts.

Just hold your breath - put the car toghether and run it - se whats happens and hope for the best.

I bet that you will find a chomped up split pint hard against the magnet in the sump next oil change.

If it has gone down a pushrod hole it should be sitting in a lifter.

I have a small telescopic magnet you could try, just need to be careful not to lift the lifter out of its' seat - should fit down the pushrod hole?

I'm PM my contact details.
KB

As it's a 1275 (non-S) it'll be sitting in the lifter, it can't really get out of there easily (as it could in 850 etc). KB's magnet should get it easy.
It can't get the lifter out of its seat, each lifter bore is one with its pushrod hole (no valley to fall into).

I hope it's not a S/S one..... (non-magnetic) if it is you want a little gripper thingy on a long rod, somebody on here would have one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah ive tried the magnet on a stick and the little gripper on a rod i have one of each the magnet couldnt get iti and the gripper got it but as the pin is longer then the width of the hole it wont come up then after a few atempts it fell to the side of mthe lifter and im hoping it has fell all the way through
well is all i have left is to try find the missing rocker cover bolt dont know where its gone so im of to the bolt specialiss place in penrith tomorro to try get one then we can start her up and see what happens only time will tell
cause if i end up having to pull the engine out i would probly change the camshaft anyway so if it ruins anything ill just have to deal with it i guess

and i also snapped one of the new spark plugs as i was putting it in
so i got the head back on but caused a few problems along the way all in all not too bad

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1978 NUGGET GOLD 1275 LS

Well I guess you have learnt a lesson there. We have all snapped a plug or stripped a bolt etc through over tightening or whatever when first starting out, it still happens to some of us even now I guess.

I would be extremely gentle with the engine when you first get it going and start driving it and see what happens. fingers crossed.
KB

shes back up and running i had to change the throttle link this morning cause i out it in upside down (dickhead) but now its all good

cheersbob

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1978 NUGGET GOLD 1275 LS

Bob
Good onya - feels good once its all going doesn't it
Cheers

yeah it sure does thanks for everyones help
cheers bob

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1978 NUGGET GOLD 1275 LS