You say bolts, you should mean bolt...
1 bolt is ok, two bolts is not, you will stress the casing which is brittle enough as it is.

only bolt is difficult to get out, the rest you can get out in no time. No special tools to get them out. just one combination 1/2 spanner and a jack.

Cheers
Aaron

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Patience is the most used tool when doing a clutch

Just remember, if something isn't happening as it should, stand back, have a breather, a cold brewski or a choccy crackle or something, think about it, and go at it again from a different angle

Peace.

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

ordering parts tonight !!!!

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And if it still doesn't work , ask us why or how .

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rightio i have the poops.....

i cant get the clutch side engine mounts undone....

i have token the clutch arm off and all.... just cant undo it!!!!!!!!

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Undo it from the subframe and leave the whole mount bolted to the clutch cover.

Tim

Yep , what Tim said , but maybe have a breather and a bit of lunch before going out and attacking it again , surprising how things change after a bit of a break .

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found the nuts on the subframe on like the inner wheel arch... u get me? ?

and undone them..... i knew there was another way and a reason why i couldnt get them....


well im having a break and going to get some brekkie....lol....


or brunch... whichhever.....


atleast i know i have to atleast get a new clutch slave.... as this one is all corroded inside....

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Slaves usually have a hard life You might wanna consider upgrading it to one with a s/steel sleeve. Tip. When replacing the engine mount bolts, affix a stiff cable tie to the head of the bolt so you can wiggle it into the hole, once you have the mounting holes lined up with subframe holes

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

If your going to get a new slave cylinder then make sure you also get a new rubber hose as well.

Put the whole thing back together and get it working before you replace the slave cylinder. It may seem like you are doing one part of the job twice but you are not struggling to bleed the clutch as well as worrying about clutch throw out clearances.

Good luck

AEG163Job I like that idea, but I get a small square of Alfoil an put it around the head of the bolt, then you can jam it into a long ring spanner and still wiggle it into place without it falling out of the spanner!!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

Damn! I knew there'd be a better way. All those wasted cable ties

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

got all the cover off......

found the problem...

bearing has fully collapsed and seized

metal shavings all through the clutch area.....

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I've seen that before with that style of bearing. There's a more expensive one with a flat face that is more of a thrust bearing. They last much better.

Tim

at least it's an easy fix. You will have it back together and running in no time. Make sure you soak the new bearing in oil. I would even go as far as say to heat the oil and soak it. Then after it has soaked for a day, lather it in grease as well. I had two NEW ones crap themselves within days of each other....

Well done for sorting it out.

Re the cable tie and alfoil solutions, there is an even easier way....
Long handled pointy nose pliers. Bolts will be in in less than 5 mins once you have the knack

Cheers
Aaron

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