Ok, so i dont think the second tank without filler will work. Might work if you made up a LH plastic tank as well that had all the fittings for the breather pipe. I dont like the thought of petrol fumes going into the bootspace and then the cabin.

I still think i should be able to make one up for a bit cheaper than $500. Why is everyone SO against the use of plastic? If anything its 10 times better, it will be more rigid, will not rust, will not need paint, seamless construction etc.

Does anyone know a company that could fabricate a fuel cap turn locking mechanism that is on the end of the filler neck, something either brass or zinc plate? I should be able to mould it in as part of the rotational process.

im not sure what you have in mind, but the only way i can think you could make a tank is in 2 parts. like an original tank.even plastic jerry cans are 2 parts, then seams are bonded.
i'm not sure why people seem to be against plastic, maybe because we have a "classic not plastic" attitude.
IMO it would be better getting them made out of galvanised steel.
depends what type of plastic, some is brittle, and say the same stuff from a jerry can can be puntured easier then metal can.
if plastic was so good, they would have used it already.

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

What i'm thinking of is a rotaionally moulded tank that is made from a diesel grade polyurethane. You make a mould that is basically a clamshell and then fill it with either granules or a liquid. You then spin it on two axis and then heat and cool the mould. This should build up a layer on the outside of the mould. The plastic will be approximately 4.0mm thick. By using this process, you eliminate the need for seams and get a really strong shell. Once the rotation process is complete, you open the clamshell and you have a hollow piece of plastic.

I'm for it, and even for a pair with suitable sized balance pipes and breather arrangement.

Not for $500 each tho!! $200 to $350 each depending on quality and fittings would be the mark for me.

Sounds like a great idea, I haven't yet met any classic mini owner that hasn't had a grumble at the small tank size at some stage!

Cheers

matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

ok ill be the first
i fill up once every 2 weeks and never had a problem with tank size

Is there any reason why you couldn't put a tank under the boot floor? I haven't had a look at this in detail, so there is probably a really obvious reason why you can't do it.

The only reasons i could thing of are the heat from the exhaust which you could solve by heat shielding and venting the tank, and the risk of running over a bump or something and hitting the tank hard enough to split it. I wouldn't have thought that this would be much of an issue though as the sump would be lower than the tank.

I was thinking about the under floor tank as well.
The Morris 1100 tank is shaped to fit inside the square of the sub-frame with the exhaust going under the middle. With a mini it would need the battery to be moved and probably getting rid of the spare wheel well but apart from that.....

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Minis are bad enough for starting on fire when hit from behind - imagine backing in into a wall with a plastic tank in the back?

Hope you got your fire suit on.

Got any data/facts on this?
Minis were branded as unsafe originally because of the exposed fuel filler. Liable to be sheared off in an accident so they said........................

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

It's common sense. There's a fuel tank, battery and a hot exhaust within
2 feet of each other. Not exactly safe.

Plastic fuel tanks are actually safer than metal ones and more resistant to rupturing, that is why you will find the majority of modern cars using them.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

I agree, but they are all made to comply with ADRs re material, manufacturing processes and placement in the vehicle.
I would not like an aftermarket homemade plastic one in the boot thanks!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

But are we suggesting a Ford Pinto scenario? I don't think so.....................

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I wouldn't mind the idea of a R/H tank without a filler neck cause I don't wanna go and drill holes! But of course there's the balance pipe etc that would need to be sorted. Having said that I only fill up once a week as it is anyway - I'd be wanting this so I can go on longer trips.

Sorry but $500 is a bit too much for me but I think it is a good idea - provided that (as stated earlier) the plastic is ADR complient for a fuel tank.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

I dont think i would want a homemade plastic tank in the back of my mini either. I am currently talking to a Rotational Moulding company in Sydney about the costs, options and benefits of making a rotationally moulded tank. It would definitely not be home made. I believe this company has around 35 years of experience in plastics so they should know what they are talking about.