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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:19 pm 
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1360cc
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the only way an immobiliser an work effectively if it is part of the ecu - otherwise you just bypass it and off you go.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:31 pm 
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Blokeinamoke wrote:
the only way an immobiliser an work effectively if it is part of the ecu - otherwise you just bypass it and off you go.
Yep, you don't even need to find it to bypass it.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:51 pm 
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998cc
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Location: ASQUITH NSW, Engine size:1310
Morris 1100 wrote:
buztoy wrote:
.... with the mini i have put a imoblesier, its mounted somewhere that won't be mentioned publicly 8) and only sends power to the alarm(yet to purchased) and it self,

now i know it can be bypassed easy, but to find the immobilser, and follow the wiring then find a suitable connection to conduct enough current to turn the engine would be a wild goose chase
So if I was to run a wire from the soleniod to the coil and hold a screwdriver across the solenoid posts the immobiliser would stop it running?


it wouldn't run because there is no current going to the starter solinoid at either points,nor to the fuel pump, the only way would be to attach a jumper lead straight from the battery and to the starter solinoid and then use the screw driver to arc,and then wire in from one of the starter points the coil and fuel pump, but even then i dought the jumper lead would conduct enouh current to the starter because of the surface area available, it wouldn't turn the engine

maybe a push start though

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:15 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
So if I was to run a wire from the soleniod to the coil


who has one of those fancy things?

:)


the best way , i see it is to have 2 switches....

one which opens/closes a circuit to the starter, and the other that opens and closes the circuit from the starter to the seat frame.

if you don't switch on breaker #1, the car doesn't start, and if you don't Switch ON breaker #2, when you start it, the would-be thief gets starter voltage through the seat.

:D

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:20 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
12V to the seat frame will do absolutely SFA.... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:37 pm 
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even without a solenoid?

or am i mixing my amps with my volts?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:56 pm 
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cush wrote:
even without a solenoid?

or am i mixing my amps with my volts?

if you dead short the wiring to middle of seat he might get a hot arse.... but for a real (but little) shock with DC you need hundreds of volts, and good contact. :wink:
For a good jolt, you need thousands.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:02 pm 
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1275cc
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I think he means short out the ign feed to the tacho. That's what I did on my Gemini years ago with a switch under the centre console. Probably does not work with Electronic Ignition. I also had a seperate switch under the dash for the fuel pump.

A shame the populra Pulsar dzzy conversion does not have a seperate external module. Taking the ignition module with you would be pretty effective.

BTW: Probably not a good idea to give away exact details of security fitted to your cars. I won't be! Thieves read Ausmini too! :shock:

Cheers,

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:34 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
12V to the seat frame will do absolutely SFA.... :lol:


'cept maybe burn your car to the ground when the sparks fly...

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:49 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 11:13 am
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Location: Brisbane
Dylan's Clubby wrote:
cmohr wrote:
I used to actually remove my steering wheel and take it with me.


all i can think of is that mr bean pisode where he goes on the picnic, and is pulling his lunch out of his suitcase and he pulls out the steering whel :lol: then it cuts to the guy trying to nick his car, he gets it running and everything then goes for the steering wheel and...nothing :lol:

i know were all sick of bean anecdotes but i thought it was worth a giggle. sorry :lol:

its a good isea though, if you dont mind lugging it around with out. you'd have to turn to lock so the car wouldnt be able to be pushed on a trailer



lol I never thought of that, although I did it before Mr Bean was even around (was in the mid 80's).

It wasn't a long walk to work, 100m or so, so a little steering wheel wasn't a burden and No it wasn't a quick release wheel, but , I had one of those pipe sockets with a screwdriver though it, so it only took 20 secs or so to pop the centre horn button, unscrew the locknut and I was on my way.

It worked...what more can I say. :lol:

Few other ones I heard of was a fuel line tap. All the electrics run, but NO feul can get thru to the carb, Theives are so often looking for electrical devices and cutoffs that they wouldn't even think of a simple mechanical tap. Didn't do that myself, but a mate with a "dunnydore" did it to his. Funny watching him start it up and rev it and go to take off, then stalling it, only to remember he hadn't turned on the fuel.. :lol:

I also used to earth my tacho wire as well, that works a treat. and simple, I had a simple two pin connector setup. The power from the coil would come to the base of the steering column, there I had a two piont connector that I could plug in either way. One wire continued, as it should up to the tacko (mounted up on the steering column) the other wire was to ground. When I was locking up the car, I simply unpluged the connector and plugged it in the other way. Everything "LOOKED OK" , but the curcuit was broken. I liked the idea of no "switches" so even the most inquisitive of thief wpildn't be able to find one.

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