I took the line off at idle and put my finger on it, there was a heap of vacuum and like I said the motor nearly stalled. It's obviously had the timing set with the vac line on...
These carbs are not S ones, they look like Cooper maybe, but they don't suck vac at idle like this. Only one has the vac connection. Like I said before I would leave the line off for now, I bet it would go much better.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Which sounds fair if it's sucking like that. But what happens when the throttle's opened. Where a normal vacuum port will move your vac advance just of idle, and advance the timing, if his is dropping off idle (or full throttle acceleration), he'll loose that advance and run retarded.

I hate to think what that poor engine might be going through. Maybe he'd be better off just getting a late model Clubby Dizzy without vac advance (should be able to get one really cheap) and block the port for now.

The best option would be to buy a new dizzy, or get the issue sorted properly (ie find out what sort of vacuum port it is etc, as it sounds like it may be manifold vacuum, not for vac advance). But if money's tight, see if you can get a non vac adv Dizzy.

Dicko

Maybe someone tried to drill a Vac advance port and hit the wrong side of the butterfly, thus creating Manifold vacuum, rather than just off idle vacuum.

The port looks stock, has the pointy nipple and all.
There is a thread on MM forum where AC Dodd documented mods (redrilling) to later SUs to fix this problem on Minis. I suspect Tiny's carby is perhaps not a Mini one, some others do run manifold vacuum apparently..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

this was the problem with the high vaccum, greig at mini classic checked it and corrected it. the mixture is fine with the carbies aswell.

you've all missed the point of what is wrong and that is there seems to be a restriction with the pistons.according to greig they are not lifting fully at throttle thus giving me only 60-70% throttle. the car doesnt run lean or idle like crap though it can flood from time to time. it could be that they are getting stuck or dont have enough vaccum to lift or it possible has something to do with the p/s carbie due to it was a different carby that was put on the set at the time of installion.

and like anyone else that isnt happy with the service i took my car somewhere else. i havent techincally taken the car to a third mechanic, it was just general chat and they threw there opinion on it, the conversation was about the work the car had done before i bought it so i could get a brief history.

the first place i went where i spent well over what was expecting at 2 attempts at it and failed and broke my spark plugs at the same time. the second place being mini classic did well and got them to run well enough to stop the spluttering and lean mixture.

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Oh Dear. Oh well. Let the flaming and ridicule begin.


where does the Doc fall in all of this then?

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The doc put red springs and M needles in, adjusted mixture and then drove it round the block. It went fine, for a 1098...
Apart from giving too much dizzy vacuum, the carbs seemed fine.
A near stock 1098 may not have the balls to lift the pistons fully anyway, the head is just a stocko 1098.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Joe, I can see that you don't understand how an SU carby works. It is all a question of airflow. The reason that the pistons are not rising all the way to the top is because your engine is not flowing enough air. If it was making more power it would be flowing more air and the pistons would rise.
Something is restricting the power and it is not the carbies.
Fitting a single 1¾" HS6 or HIF44 will just do the same thing as the twin 1¼ HS2s. The piston will still only rise about 70%.
Have you noticed that your engine is only producing about 70% of the power it should?

I agree totally.....

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May the fork be with you.

Joe,

I have tried to ignore this thread as much as possible but alas you have broken me. I am SICK and TIRED of hearing (reading) about you and your cars problems. You have been given advice by some very knowledgeable people who have been in the mini game the majority of their lives. You have had work done by people who are more or less the "Godfather" of mini's produced in Australia and that have more knowledge on the car then you could ever hope to remember. You have had members of this forum go out of their way to help you yet you still winge, complain and question.

I have no doubt that you cannot leave the carby's alone and I have seen pictures of you playing with them after you have had work done. YOU my friend bought a cheap "Condition unknown" set of SU carby's off ebay and YOU have paid the ultimate price for it. Had you of bought a set of proper matched carb's for a mini then perhaps you wouldn't be where you are now. I would suggest avoiding returning to "The first place you went" as I believe you have worn your welcome out well and truly.

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Your silliness has been noted.

Hahahahaha! Why not get ya self an EFI mini, then you will have no more SU probs?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Your a good man M1100, not willing to give up on a hopeless cause (or a sucker for punishment )

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

I too, have fallen into the secondhand carb trap.
I bought a 45mm weber off an ad on here near on two years ago from someone intrastate, but a fair way away. It was jetted for a mini, and had had a rebuild kit put through it (which it certainly has). Whoever "reconditioned" it blocked some important passages with lead balls with the result being one side would never have worked at all, and the other barrel only partially so.

I'm not complaining, I'm not blaming the seller as he may or may not have known. But I've spent many hours over the last two years trying to get a carb working that was never going to work without another strip and refurbish.

Lesson to learn from both Joe and I - that cheap secondhand weber/dellorto/SU may not work out so cheap afterall as scott says. Unless it truly was just unbolted off the car and proven to work, assume it won't be and save yourself some grief.
KB

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Where is the vaccum port, on the carb or on the manifold? Is it the one on the drivers or passengers side?

Personally Joe/Tiny as its an unknown engine combo (close to standard) I would have left it alone with an 1.5" SU and had it "touched by the people in the know" (eg: DrMini, etc....). If you are unsure yourself and listen to what they say as you might surprise yourself and retain the info/knowledge for use later on or help you get a better understanding of what youv'e been reading in the "technical workshop manuals".

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

maybe you dont have enough carbs - do you think there is room for another two that'll fix ya