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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:03 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 9:54 am
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Location: cowra nsw
temp sender screws into head....

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:34 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Location: Brisbane
ok,,, there seems to be a number of issues here,,, one is that there is no water comming out of the heater hoses,,, now the rad pipe (heater hose) won`t suply any water if the heater tap is turned off,,, ok???,,, so that`s an easy check & also both the heater tap &/or heater itself can both be blocked,,, so no water comming out of t'That" hose is most probably one & or any combination of all those things

2ndly,,, the heater outlet (at the back of the head) can also be blocked, unbolt the little elbow (2x 1/4 bolts/studs/nuts) & clean out the hole in the head with some stiff wire of some sort,,, even a srew driver,,, whatever, just get it off & clean out the whole heater system & make water pass through

Ok,,, now,,, if there is heaps of water comming out of the top rad hose (from the thermostat housing) when it`s cold, then either you have no thermostat at all ,,, or it`s stuck open

If no water comes out of here at all then there will most surely be a blockage inside there too,,,

he`s suggested that he`s changed the water pump & radiator & i`m assuming (not good practise to assume things but still i have to at this stage) that both the water pump & radiator are both good & work correctly,,, that being the case then has anyone actually checked the bottom hose isn`t blocked????... i`ve had a fe wvery recently where the corrosion inhibitor (green coolant stuff) have solidified in the bottom hose & know it sounds simple enough to check the bottom hose isn`t blocked,,, but rarely thought of,,, so double check that too

ok,,, the temp gueage seemsto be reading hot almost straight away,,,, that`s obviously either a wiring problem,,, a guage problem,,, or a temp sender problem,,, &/or any combination therof

so,,, seems to me you have at least 2 problems & not just one---> go & clean out all that stuff i`ve just typed about & make water actually flow everywhere,,, then sort the electrical gremlins within the temp guage system & the job is done.

Then get a chicken cooking temp guage spike hingy from your mum & shove it in the top rad cap spout/outlet/neck (obviosuly with the cap off & filled with water) & run the car till the thermostat opens & get a temp reading from there to double check your cars temp guage reads accurately

OK?????

:-)

easy-peasy

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:45 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:59 pm
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Location: Bris / Syd
check the temp sender man, is it the right one for the guage ??. when i bought a new guage kept old sender in and ment the guage read incorrectly. changed it over and was ok.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:06 am 
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1098cc
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ok firstly thank you guys so much for your help so far. i have water passing through the block now as i unblocked it with a bit of wire through the drain hole at the back of the block. there is now water also passing through the heater hoses etc now.what temperature is good for your motor and what temparature is too hot or hot.....when my guage reads hot the water isnt boiling and hasnt enough pressure on it to spew out the over flow hole thing. but the water is hot just not boiling hot.

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1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:48 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:44 pm
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Location: Far North Queensland
As Matt says at the bottom of his post, you need another way to measure the actual temperature of your running engine to compare against your guage rather than "it aint boiling". Actual temp could be anyway between 65*C and 99*C.
If you have the chicken skewer thingy that Matt talks about then use that. Otherwise go buy or borrow a mechanical temp guage and fit that to the head or after being careful not scald yourself, drop in the top of your radiator.
This way you will know what your temp is in relation to what the guage is saying.
Best time to buy spare guage is when Supercrap, Autocrap, Repcrap have their 20% off specials. Doesn't have to be an expensive one.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:55 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: cowra nsw
ok fellas i fixed the problem. it was the radiator, wasnt efficient enough so swapped it over and now stays between normal and hot without a heater so when i connect up my fresh air heater it should be better again. thanks for all ya help fellas much aprreciated.

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1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:57 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
you can also get multi meters that have a temp gauge on them also..Very handy
I would also vote to replace the Regualtor on the back of the Binnical with Wombat's one that will elimiate that possible :wink:

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