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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:51 pm 
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Yay For Hay!
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
david rosenthal wrote:
when you pull the box to pieces it might be time for a few bits like these for it

a quaffe diff out of a honda integra with double helical gears and good cv's
the do fit with a very small amount [less than a milimeter] out of the casing. There are std taper rollers to fit from 40mm carrier to 3" mini casing.
Then you go for a taper roller brg replacement for the pinion and in-put brgs. at least these will take some loads.


AHHHH SH!T DAVID!!

don't do that to me..... I'm already thinking of other little changes I want to make - this is my daily driver and competition car, I've gotta draw the line somewhere close to my feet!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:19 am 
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1098cc
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WELLLLLLL The taper roller brgs cost a little more than half the price of the plastic std mini brgs. The alloy housings a blind man can machine up.
As for the diff this one is a diff that the bloke whose g/box I am showing him "how to do" bought. It's almost brand new, but find a "U pull the part" wrecker and you can get one cheap. I can get one for around $100. The case mods are easy, but the hardest part is machining the carrier and the mini crown wheel, but there is a "trick" to it.
The cv's are not much bigger than a std pot joint type but hell of a lot stronger, or you can use BMW ones. The axles are cut and shut to suit.
This box set-up is having VW passat axels and better outer cv's.
Look at the whole thing cos it will be cheaper and MUCH stronger in the long run. If you want details etc let me know.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:28 am 
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848cc
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The diff was bought over from New Zealand but you can get one on ebay from USA for around $500. But David's Idea sounds better. At least you know they arnt hard to get.


Cheap as LSD. Idea's to consider. At least; regardless what you do to the engine you know the box will handle it. ( to a extent)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:54 am 
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This space for rent
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Do it Simon, you know you want to...

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:04 am 
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nup, there's more than a weeks work in that - don't have the time

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:15 pm 
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as a great man once said "here's your problem... someones switched this thing to evil"

one smashed spider gear
Image

and it looks like the diff picked up one of the teeth and smashed it into the diff housing, right into the selector shaft that comes up from the gearchange remote - which is what's locked it in gear - or actually just jammed that shaft. Bit of araldite will fix that I reckon
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I haven't split the box off the engine yet, just took the diff housing off, but at least all the teeth are there!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:32 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
At least you found all the bits....so cross pin or no cross pin this time?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:38 pm 
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Mick wrote:
At least you found all the bits....so cross pin or no cross pin this time?


definitely cross pin, tossing up whether to get the cross pin from UK, or Sydney

the 3 month old EN40B pin is stuffed

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:28 pm 
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Lucky! 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:45 pm 
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Pm sent :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 1:12 pm 
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poeee wrote:
Lucky! 8)


depends how you define 'lucky'....

lucky that the diff broke so I could pull the motor apart and find the real damage being done :(

since I re-ringed and bearing'd it a in March, something odd has happened, #1, #3 and #4 bigends look like the one on the left, and #2 is the one on the right :?

Image

#2 gudgeon looks like this - they're press fit, they shouldn't be able to move, right?

Image

well since March when it was properly fitted, and had been for 10,000 odd k's, it's moved, and has been gouging the bore

Image

sigh.... :roll:

when I had it apart in March I found that the cam has started pitting on the lobes, so I'll get it ground again, and looks like another rebore - 1360 this time

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:07 pm 
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Oooooh Bugger. That all sux.
Looks like your engine will be the next size up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:09 pm 
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1098cc
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you have a bent conrod in No.2. Check the piston where the pin fits to see if there are any surface cracks
I would get them all checked for straightness and crack tested, otherwise if you re-build it one may decide to part company. Also get the crank checked aswell.
Looks like it is going to take a little time to re-build now, so upgrade.

PS just looked at the pics of the gearbox case. I have plenty of spare cases if you want to replace it

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Last edited by david rosenthal on Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:14 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
you have a bent conrod in No.2. Check the piston where the pin fits to see if there are any surface cracks
I would get them all checked for straightness and crack tested, otherwise if you re-build it one may decide to part company. Also get the crank checked aswell.
Looks like it is going to take a little time to re-build now, so upgrade.


bent rod - bum... thanks David, will do

I've been slack on sending an invoice to one of my clients - so there's a little bit I can 'divert', not much though

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:17 pm 
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Oh crap. Is the gouge as deep as it looks in the pic? Going to 1360 enough to clear it?

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