OK, so you can get MIG wire in various materials then? If that's the case, the difference between MIG and TIG comes down to personal preference (and skill level perhaps) then?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

You can get MIG wire for most S/S grades, most aluminium alloys, lots of steel grades, hardfacing for steel, also silicon bronze, etc.

Many new cars are MIG brazed not spotwelded now. The MIG machines are worth heaps and are optimized to use silicon bronze wire.

The MIG/TIG decision re welding alloy is material thickness, and finish required.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

On a similar topic, does anyone know of any good welding books, similar to a text book, something like what phat kat is writing for spray painting. Ive had a look at the haynes one on the net. But heard mixed opinions about it.

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Simplify and add lightness

[quote="blue_deluxe"]On a similar topic, does anyone know of any good welding books, similar to a text book, something like what phat kat is writing for spray painting. Ive had a look at the haynes one on the net. But heard mixed opinions about it.[/quote]

he he he... I did mention that I was writing a panel beating basics didn't I? That includes my budy.. Oxy ... I will also cover MIG but I've hardly use it since tech, so if anyone wants to add anything to what I've written be my guest please your most welcome..

hi blue delux, if you are interested, and if I can, I have a 600+ page pdf on welding. Its called "Principles of welding" (processes, physics, chemistry and metallurgy).
It was published in 1999, but am pretty sure that it would cover any and all welding questions you have.

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Chuck Norris is the only person alive who can kick you in the back of the face!!
mooo, I'm a pig!

That would be fantastic. Pm sent.

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Simplify and add lightness

It does not matter how good the machine is , it all depends on the operator .Practice, practice, practice.
Over the years I have done every type of welding, but personally[ and some will jump down my neck] all I have is a SIP 150 mig, about 10 years old and never missed a beat. The new toolex migs are made in Italy and are exactly the same as SIP.
I only use GOOD quality flux core .8mm wire as it the material is a bit crappy it helps to float the impuritys. It is a bit tricky to use but again practice.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

The best resource is free (Thanks to the internet). The site I like the most is Mig Welding.co.uk. It explains everything you need to know about MIG welding and has lots of tutorials on car body repair. It also has a forum so you can ask questions, post piccies and so on - like Ausmini for welders It also has TIG, OA and stick welding sub-forums. It's the next best thing to getting proper lessons, as there's a heap of talent to steer you in the right direction. The only problem is the welders they refer to are often UK based, like Sealey etc.

What he said ^^^^

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

[quote="david rosenthal"]It does not matter how good the machine is , it all depends on the operator .Practice, practice, practice.
Over the years I have done every type of welding, but personally[ and some will jump down my neck] all I have is a SIP 150 mig, about 10 years old and never missed a beat. The new toolex migs are made in Italy and are exactly the same as SIP.
I only use GOOD quality flux core .8mm wire as it the material is a bit crappy it helps to float the impuritys. It is a bit tricky to use but again practice.[/quote]

Abso-freckin'-lutely. Operator error is the main cause of most problems experienced. To quoted this wise old bastard I once knew (spoken with a slight whistle) "A bad tradesmen blames his tools". So many people I know pick up a cheap whatever after using the best quality one they can find their whole life, can't use it and blame the tool.... The only tool is the opperator... As David just said, practice practice practice.

I'm always careful mentioning that I have some "no-name tools", a lot of people are quick to jump down your neck and tell you that your an idiot or that you clearly have no experience otherwised you'd use a "whatever". CRAP. Ironically some of my stuf is Toolex (I don't know if you guys have a shop called Gasweld over there but its where I've seen it). I wouldn't say run out and buy their stuff, a lot of it is crap, but I would say compare it to the up market stuff... You'll be in for a shock... And a 1/3 of the price a pleasent shock.

First MIG I bought was from BOC (CIG in those days). Made in Italy (Due). The wire rollers wore out, gas valve & then the wire liner. Went back to BOC -"sorry, we don't support that equpt anymore". You have to think long term and therefore part replacement. This can be a problem cos even my WIA 150 (Made in Oz) I believe now come from north of the equator.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Man, you must have given that welder a workout.....building a bridge?

yeah, I guess so. From memory, two roundnoses & a moke (and you know the story with rust & mokes!). I suppose I got my money's worth outa it.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Buy Lincoln, they do support their stuff well.
I had some 1948 vintage DC180MK arc welders at Rheem 15 years ago, and Lincoln still carried all parts for them.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.