that's an apples and oranges test....

I want to see a test on a head with hardened seats, with and without flashlube

Yeap, they're both good, but not without there minor drawbacks.

Flashlube only works when you remember to put it in. I do occasionally forget

Hardened Seats I have fitted to most of the fleet, but it does take a bit more work to lap the valves in, though this is seldom needed......

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my engine reconditioners have a machine that cost them $50,000 that puts the valves and seats on exactly the right angles for sealing - they told me off for even asking about lapping the valves - I'd only undo what their machine does....

Ah yes, but what about next time it's off- will you just wire brush them? Take back to the shop? Or, try a little lapping paste if needed...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I see your point

well... the only time I take the valves out is when I'm getting them to do something else, and since they charge bugger all do redo the seats, I just get them done again. Last time I had it off I had new guides put in, so they did them to make sure they were all seated if they'd moved a bit...

I like hardened seats but the ports and exhaust valves in my 940 head are too big to fit them.
Unless I let the inserts overhang the ports... nah, I'll wait until the head's worn.

Also, they must be fitted properly or they can fall out. A member in Perth had this happen. Can make a big mess.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so i think i have it sorted im going into repco tomorrow to pick up one of theese things apparently it will work very well what are your thoughts

too small

..s'funny but I kinda get where GT mowog is coming from - the oil is moving fast & relatively little of it past the effective magnetic field. But then I can't discount the work already done by some to check what is being picked up by the magnets and that it's having an effect.

I wonder if the magnets are pulling most of the debris out when the engine is off? Like it's drawing out the metallic stuff from the oil in and near the filter element?

Even if that's the case, I guess having the stuff stuck there on the filter wall is better than it going around the engine. (& leaves the filter a little cleaner?)

Still they're only good for ferric particles, no good for anything that doesn't have iron in it (plenty of aluminium, chromium and other non-magnetic materials in there).

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

+ & - about a magnet on a Oil Filter
Love a Safety net that does help unlike our pollies
Why did they put a magnet in the gear box in the first place. The Oil filter is another area where metals are collected and the Magnet helps

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

anyone notice the pun

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Allrighty then.

I have 4 magnets on my filter, in thou they are 1250 x 125, they cover the bottom nicely. After draining the oil from the filter (with magnets still attached) and cutting it open with an exhaust cutter (so no swarf) there was about 1/8 of metal silt there, more than the magnetic plug could hold.

On the subject of particle proximity to the magnet, look at it this way, i had a 1500L fish pond, the filter was at a guess 1L volume, this does not mean the filter only saw 0.00066% of the water, the pump flowed 3000L per hour. So the whole pond went through the filter every half hour which means it will end up catching most of the stuff there.

And valve saver oil, i use it with premium fuel. But i may have access to 100+ octane leaded fuel in time

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

pun noticed

ok...

on Nigel's engine, I've had three decent size hard drive magnets (on the canister itself) for the last two oil changes, for a total of about 3000miles. These are on the outer canister (not the spin on type) I also have one each on the drain plugs of both the gearbox and engine. His engine is a bit tired, with about 125psi compression and 40-60psi oil pressure (idle-load)

I've seen exactly no swarf of any of the magnets in the last two changes. (drained the oil and checked with the magnets in situ)

I'll still put them back on after the next change. Maybe they're like a St Christopher's medallion...

BTW I use flashlube/lucas/moreys upper cylinder lubricant in premium fuel on standard re-ground seats and I've seen no valve seat issues in two years' driving.

Low mileage/small sample size but wahtever

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1958 Morris Minor 1000 - "Nigel"

I've not tried magnets on the old canister filters, I reckon their casing is a bit too thick to work properly. They work on spin-ons because they are tinny.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.