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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 4:41 am 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
OK it is the slave cylinder circlip stopping the travel.

I like the idea of the longer rod from Dave so that is where I am going to go with this one.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 5:03 am 
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mickmini wrote:

OK it is the slave cylinder circlip stopping the travel.



Easy fix then :)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:53 pm 
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Mike I'v had the circlip out for a long time now and its the wifes daily drive :wink: give it a go before looking for a longer rod unless you have 1

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:46 am 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
I have the circlip out and have full pedal travel but still no disengagement.

Off to Poland for the weekend so I have no time to investigate.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:18 am 
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Try another clutch arm ,preferably New one.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:26 pm 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
it is new clutch arm, new plunger, well lubricated, so there is no wear there

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 5:21 pm 
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If the arm geometry is out, which it seems to be (since you've had to take the circlip out of the slave), might need a washer behind the thrust bearing as the Doc has suggested. This will help restore the working radius of the ball on the arm, that sits in the plunger.

Also be sure the the M/C is 0.70" Bore and it doesn't have that shim under it.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:12 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
If the arm geometry is out, which it seems to be (since you've had to take the circlip out of the slave), might need a washer behind the thrust bearing as the Doc has suggested. This will help restore the working radius of the ball on the arm, that sits in the plunger.

Also be sure the the M/C is 0.70" Bore and it doesn't have that shim under it.

Clutch MC should be 0.75" (as some were), the .70" ones barely moved enough fluid for the clutch to work at all. :lol:
I had a 0.70" one once, the only fix that let it work was to make the MC pushrod longer to get more pedal stroke. But it felt weird having the pedal higher. I fitted a 0.75" one and never looked back.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:18 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Clutch MC should be 0.75"


Yes, this is correct (trying to do 3 things at once!)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 2:39 am 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
yep it needs a washer under the bearing. it was running out of ball movement.

I reckon this was the root cause of the problems.

Only trouble I have now is that I can't extract the bearing from the plunger :roll: I have managed to destroy the bearing, but guess what the only spare part I don't have here is?

i changed the slave seal because it was weeping, but I think once I have the washer under the bearing all will be good.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 6:02 am 
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mickmini wrote:

I have managed to destroy the bearing, but guess what the only spare part I don't have here is?

cheers
michael


You can use a 5203ZZ, nearly every bearing shop will have them, they are cheaper than the stock item and they are way better than even the old flat faced one (they are a double row angular thrust bearing). You might have to grind a little out of the thrust plate on the diaphram and it is a 'floater' on the plunger. I have never worried about pinning them and never had a problem, but if it does bother you you can always shim it.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:48 am 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
.100" washer and a new bearing all is well again.

It is well after midnight now (goddam too thick engine mounts :roll: ) so I can't do an engine running test, but I checked it by sticking in gear and rolling the car with my foot on the clutch. Seems ok by that method.

Also checked the adjustment by looking at the movement imparted on the dial indicator and then ensuring that I got my thrust clearance back by levering the crank damper back again. This was to make sure that I am not running the bearing up against the thrust plate to gain enough travel to disengage, which will destroy the crank thrust bearings again.

I have a farewell party after work tomorrow so I can't test until late again ... I might be tipsy enough to not care about the noise then :lol:

Thanks again for the advice guys.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 29, 2010 7:49 am 
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Location: Sydney - strangely, I am glad of the sight of hills!!
managed to start it up and test tonight briefly. Clutch is the best I can remember for this motor.

At least I know all the pitfalls and intimate details of the necessary adjustments.

Hopefully get it out for one more big run before we leave :D

cheers
michael

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