I use ARP's Big Block Ford FE rod bolts and nuts. They are heaps cheaper to buy HERE than their Cooper S ones, and you get 2 sets for the price of 1. Steel is same specs.
Beware, there is a few thou machining involved though.
My 1412 stroker has BB Chev 396 bolts in. Why? Leftover 1/2 set from a 1330S motor I built 10 years ago. (even more machining needed...)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ahhh....there are a few more hints in there now.....

Serious, you cannot learn the finer points of engine rebuilding here or from any book. This is definitely one subject where there simply is no substitute for experience. Engine rebuilding / reconditioning is expensive (if it's not then your missing something) and so when something goes south, it will leave that bad taste in your mouth for years. Not a way to enjoy a hobby........

So, if you cannot get a hold of someone - with good experience - to show you, what to do? All is not lost.

Get a hold of a resonable, 2nd hand, working engine, with no serious issues. Clean it, pull it down, and clean it again, and again. Then measure, measure, measure.

While your cleaning and measuring, it give you that time when you can study each and every part in high detail. So this will give you familiarity with what parts may look like (not saying that they will be right though).

Then for the price of a gasket set, you can re-assemble it all again, put it in your car and drive it for a bit, see if any problems from your work show up. These are the things that you will really learn the most from and will build some experience and confidence. I would suggest doing this at least a couple of times until you are comfortable with it all.

You will need some special tools and don't buy cheap - you'll regrete it

Then when your ready to truely recondition, you'll need to find a good machine shop. These are very few and far between - but that's another story.......

_________________

Ok I'm going to start writing a final Copy of with all the bits that everyone has added. Should be done in a few hours. I'll keep checking the thread if anyone has any final contributions to add.

Come on people go nuts!

_________________

Dirty old bastard

That is one magazine subscription I wish I'd got in my Xmas stocking

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

just a couple of bits to add to your list Phat Kat.
some may disagree but it's the way I do it. When assembling all moving parts/surfaces I use a coating of assembly copper grease. I have found that if you take time to assemble a engine [like days or weeks] then the oil coating can dry off the surface.
As Matt said clean everything, but as I fit each and every part I check that there are not tight spots. It's a bugger when you do all the bearings or pistons and find it's tight. Which one and what damage has been done turning it.
When fitting the cam I fit it first and then the oil pump, this way the oil holes are covered and make sure all turns free.
For what's it worth

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Thanks David I'll work it in there

Cheers

Alex

PS, sorry mate, I'll get back to your message soon, I haven't forgotten

no problems, I will send you some drawings and a few ideas for you to think about.

_________________
Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Phat,,, small condoms? well they do call me "The Mini Man"

& yes there are some little condom thingys specially made for the big-end-bolt protection, specifically for this job,,, ask your local performance engine shop,,, i`ve seen them but never used them, i`ve always just grabbed the rod as i`m pushing it through & direct it nicely onto the crank (i think i actually have a pair of them here still in their packet)

"Sometimes" after a crank grind (more so with Stroker cranks) the bearing journals can be a little on the narrow side,,, now that usually means that the grinder has made a very long radius & that`s a good thing,,, but then the bearing shells may need a little "narrowing" or they can "grab" the radius,,, just a quick note on that one,,, not too many people would get caught with it, but still i thought it worth a mention seeing as you`re proibly going to end up writing a whole book Phatty

Edit--> Oh!!! & i don`t bother cross-drilling cranks or making main cap straps or 4-bolt caps etc,,, never have,,, doubt i ever will,,, i must admit that i have had to build lots of engines with all that,,, but i`ve never bothered to "Make" an engine up myself with all that,,, havn`t seen the point,,, never needed too,,, never had a problem by not doing it either

Shims for the timing -(crank) gear,,, """Usually""" they only break up if they`ve been left on the crank during a hardening process,, normally , good new-ish (unhardened) shims would be fine,,, i just made "habits" when i was a kid,,, (((some are good habits & some are bad)))

I`ve never "used" vasoline for the oil pumps (or anything else for that matter) I just "stick" with STP (i made a funny) ,,, i`ve just had to sort the problems of it not working properly from someone else smearing the stuff in there & oil pressure not happeing

If & when fitting new cam-bearings, please try to make sure they`r fitted correctly & align the oil holes correctly & also make sure you get them "Reamed" to suit your cam, that way the cam isn`t tight as a nun`s ````,,, well you know what i mean,,, this part that keeps bouncing around about an engine (& all it`s components) being "Free-to-spin" is soooooooooooooooooooooooo
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

```""""IMPORTANT""""""""""

a tight engine will ---> not only be slow, use more fuel, run hotter, but usually wear prematurely too

cam timing???,,, when/if in doubt , then use the "Dot-to-Dot" method,,, all four dots should line up,,,---> the center of the crank, the dot on the crank gear, the dot on the cam gear & the center of the cam,,, if you`re not sure that it`s right -->then easy checked by running a ruler across the rockers (valve caps) on the cyl on the overlap... if #1 cyl has both valves closed, & then #4 is on overlap,,, that is --> one rocker is half open & the other is half closed--> both rockers will (or should be pretty-well)""" even""" & level & the crank timing mark will be on the pointer,,, Now that`s just an easy check (rule of thumb),,, if the crank timing mark is way off when the rockers/valves are level,,, well you have an issue with your cam gears or your cam,,, or you`re doin it wrong

& funny enough---> when the timing marks on both sprockets are aligned correctly,,, then #4 cyl is firing & #1 is "on-the-rock" ,,, catches a lot of people out that one

you can all have a play with cam timing (if you have the time) but that is just an easy check to make sure you`re pretty damn close,,, they will run happilly anywhere around that spot (within a deg or 2) but to do it spot on with a new chain--> i like to run them with a tad of advance (2 or 3 deg) to allow for chain stretch as it all wears in,,, once it runs in & the chain stretches you`ll notice it run just that bit better

we`ve been playing with all sorts of multi-cam,,, multi-valved engines in the last few years & i can tell you all here & now,,, it can become quite painful & VERY time consuming,,, but once it`s all sorted & done right (to suit your application) it`s worth it

& as GT says,,,, if/when you do decide it`s time to play building an engine,,, please try to have at least "some-one" with "Some" mechanical knowledge/experience with you... that way you can blame them if it all goes wrong

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

GOOD ONE MATT #$&*(*&%^&* I thought I had just finished, and then you lay all this on me!!!!!!!!!



All good. Luckily I've already covered a lot of it anyway ... so buy the time I add this into it and proof read.. should have it done by about 02:30am Syd time. I'll put it up in a seperate thread so that it on the first page and easy to find blah blah blah...

Me? Write a book? pffft, I can't even spell properly.... don't worry, no ones in danger of that happening


Matt, I appreciate you input regarding timing, and it's all good info.... but as I'm sure you would agree, a cam timing how to is a 1600 word post on its own... so I am just trying to keep it as simple as posible where that is concerned

hey, you can write one if you want and I'll put a link to in in this how to during the timing step?

Excellent work guys, i had built a variety of mini engines in my youth, with input from mechanic friends, so i know the basics, it's the little tips learned from years of experience that can make a huge difference to how it all goes together. Thanks for taking on the project Phat Cat i'm sure many of us "backyard" builders" will benifit from your time and effort.

TheMiniMan, A "how to" on Cam Timing would be an interesting read, it's always been one of those "dark arts" done by the race guys to me.

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

Just to throw my 2 cents worth in to your millions of dollars worth Phatkat, could you include in step 18 (Bolt on the oil pump) the bit about ensuring that the new bolts that came with your new oil pump are probably too long!!

Those of us who have built a motor have our one 'thorn in the side' and this is one of mine. Years back, had an engine all ready to go but couldn't get oil pressure. Stripped it down again and sure enough, the supplied bolts were a couple of mm's too long.

I am however, bowing to your far superior experience.

Cheers

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

Hey Rodney

Stop bowing mate... all good.... there has got to be hundreds of people on here with more experience than me.

Thanks for your help too. I've included your bits and pieces in there, and I'll note this as well. Thanks mate

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 233#783233










.

ok, it`s not really a "dark-Art" but it surely does baffle a whole heap of people i`m sure (obviously)

but , i`m not going to get into the subject except so far as to say a few things

one-> i`m not knowlegable or experienced enough to even think about typing a how-to on mini cam timing,,, there really is soooo many variables & options & beliefs & , in fact, so many that the average Joe/Jane Doe is actually baffled & believs it to be a "Black-Art"

it`s more about a """"package""" or """"Packages""",,,, that this topic needs to be (or would work better as an explanation) than a bit of a long winded post here from anyone , let alone me

2ndly,,, if i gave out all my experience in a post here then i may as well go drive a fork-lift-truck for a living because if everyone knew exactly what i did then they`d do it all themselves & i`d be out of the game

3rdly,,, (& purely as an example) i`ve recently been playing with quite a few multi-cam/multi-valved engines & they`ve really helped me realise that the mini is soooo far behind the 8-ball in cam spec/design that it`s not funny,,, & it`s purely because of our suffocating cyl head, & poor quality inlet & exhaust tract "Package",,, (read between the lines for that one & you`ll be halfway there) & even more to this topic than can be relayed here,,, it`s WAY too much info & too varied a topic than can be relayed here (echo) ,,, but that "Echo" is the point,,, & if you got that then you know more than the average there`s just simply too much crap to get into here , on the net, not able to spend 'THat" amount of time, sorry.

But i will say that "Playing" with "Real-Time" track testing with various cam timings on my 20valved buggy recently has made some serious ground Gotta love separate In & Ex cams

i typed an easy, basic cam-timing set-up, (rule of thumb) """check""" previously & if you actually got the picture, & actually understood what i typed, then your on your way to "Start" learning about cams & heads & inlets & exhaust combinations ---> As "Packages",,, there`s just not one way better than the other , cause there really is more than one way to skin a cat & how long is a piece of string & who`s on first & who`s got the biggest at the pub... etc etc etc

i`m not even going to start on cam timing "Packages",,, sorry.

the real truth of the matter is---> it would be way longer than Phattys engine assy guide & i more happy for him to have the longest thread post than me

All i really care about is how much faster my buggy is right now because i did play with the cam timing

Try & convince people like GR & Ivan Tighe & Elgin & Wade & Waggott & all the many many other cam-shaft grinders in Aust (or around the world) to do a complete write-up of everything "Cam-Timing" related & see what the response would be,,, (if in fact you get a response at all)

there are rules of thumb but even they`re way too much to get into i reckon, uless you all pay me $500,000 each to cover my time so i can still pay the bills without having to touch a spanner,,, i`d be happier typing crap than spannering

Line up here--->



Common GR,,, lets here it You know you want to,,, I`ll send you some more wagon wheels & tea bags

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.