That was my understanding in Victoria too..

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Don't they wear quicker anyway?

That doesn't fit the "Calver compromise" mantra, in my opinion.

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its only illegal if you get caught

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"if its got tits or tires it'll cost yah"

Or if you have an accident, and your insurer is not feeling benevolent...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

drmini,

I can understand forbiding heim/rose joints on street vehicles because if the joints are not protected they will wear very quickly.

I have used larger diameter hose to shield the joints and filled hose with grease...no water, salt, sand or other grit gets at them. Trick was to cut hose a little long so it maintains a tight seal on the joints.

Here are joints with machined spacers:

http://uberjumper.reliccommunity.com/ga ... temId=5561

http://uberjumper.reliccommunity.com/ga ... temId=5566

Hunter2

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

I'll be ordering the MSSK3013 kit once I receive confirmation back from MiniSpares that it will suit a 1981 Moke. Can anybody confirm that either way?

Cheers
Anthony


* edit *
I just realised how dumb that question is. I assume they are the same, just making sure that there aren't any differences between the subframes for a moke vs a mini.
Rest assured I'll be learning from an expert once it's all assembled!

I'm gonna check with my Aunty Heim tonight to make sure she's legal in Vic and NSW.

Or was that Aunty Rose??



Just a quick one. Having all this adjustable stuff on hand, what would be a reasonable consensus on front end settings, for road, race, motorkhanas etc. etc. Dont be frightened. I read all the specifics....
Boys?

Ok, Minispares got back to me... but they aren't sure if the kit would suit the Moke. I expect it will, but does anybody know for sure?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Anthony

PM sent

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So, the kit is now installed and Barney has fully adjustable suspension. I have a couple of questions now. To reduce the horrific toe-out on the front, the old man decided we should slacken off the steering to push the front of the wheel in (if that makes sense). Barney looked like Dumbo at one point! Even with the adjustable tie rods at their shortest we could not get the toe-out in to an acceptable level.

So NOW I've got a feeling that the adjustment to the steering rod may have created some sort of 'slack' in the steering. I've found a quiet, open bit of road near the coal loaders here and given it a bit of a swerve test and all seems to be OK, but on the open road (and at higher speed) it feels like the car wants to swap ends. Particularly on right hand bends there seems to be normal turn in and then if I try and pull on a bit more lock it seems to steer 'quickly', in doing so it loads up the rear and everything feels like it wants to switch ends. It feels like it sort of moves around in the steering when you apply lock and then suddenly finds a direction. Awful descriptions I know.

So the real question is, should there have been a need to play with the steering in initial setup and in doing so have we created a steering problem.

Before I noticed this I headed over to Simpson's for a wheel alignment. Any suggestions to setup below? I'm chasing a 'fast' road setup, with the occasional track day (oz50!).

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

Don't like that zero toe on the front

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

The nervousness could well be caused by the inconsistent toe you now have on the rear -- 0.15º in on the left, 0.05º out on the right. ANY toe-out on the rear of a Mini will make it twitchy, and make it feel like it wants to swap ends.

That's great if you're chasing turn-in on the track, but on the road it can be .. disconcerting to say the least

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

You're definitely right Simon and I will be addressing the rear straight away. What are your thoughts about buggerising around with the steering?

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http://www.rylstoneclassic.com

When you say "slacken off the steering", what does that mean? To adjust the toe on the front, you loosen the lock nuts on the steering rod ends and turn the rods to lengthen or shorten the effective length of the steering rack.

If that's what he did, that's entirely normal. However, with adjustable bits on the front you often need longer steering rod ends -- when the suspension is lowered, there's often not enough thread on the standard items to get enough engagement on the steering rods at the correct toe setting.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Longer rod ends (on rack tierods) for this are available from Karcraft. They are cheap, so don't bodgy about if you need a pair.
Another way- I can build you a rack with M1100 ends on it. Or go get one from Mini King... he stocks them for the Mokers among us.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.