The Electronic Ignition Kits that I sell are designed for Standard coils or GT40 at the most. The coil Resistance must be 1.5 Ohms or higher. I have certainly tried these buggers out and have had great results from them. The two Minis (One of them was the van of our Canadian friend HUNTER) that left from the Sunshine Coast and went around Australia were both equipped with my Ignition Kits. They did not miss a beat and they drove in many different weather conditions. They covered around 21,000 Km in 77 Days. Even though they were carrying spare ones they never needed them. They recon they would have gone through two sets of points in that distance if they were running points. I have sold Kits to people that complained that they do not work and send them back and when I test them they work perfectly well for me. These ones that come back I give to my friend "rover". Some people have no idea what they are doing when it comes to Electrics. Things are so easy when you at least read the instructions or know how to read a Multimeter.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

yeah, well said Tony

there should be no probs using them with 1.5ohm coils at all.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Well Ive been playing with electronics professionally for 15 years.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Another arv spent dicking around with this heap of sh*t... Fitted points, changed back to a GT40 coil, confirmed continuity of all wiring, confirm condensor ok, confirm points clean and making and breaking.

Inductive timing light fitted shows no spark at all, 12v at coil during cranking, confirm continuity of HT lead, brand new dizzy cap fitted. Brand new rotor button fitted about 6mths ago... No spark... WTF...

Disconnected the tacho from the neg side of coil incase it had failed... nothing...

Fitted another grubby ol rotor button... bang off she goes... I never ever thought to even check continuity of the rotor button, as it was brand new... have never had one fail... Sure as SH*T its friggin open circut....

Its probably done all of about 20klms... Bosch GL256






Dare say the Pertronix module is ok....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

There have been probs lately with Bosch rotors and condensers, made you can guess where now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Its still beyond me how this button is U/S... It's identical to the grubby old one I fitted. But 100% proven that it is U/S and causing no spark. Perhaps a hairline fracture that is causing it to be O/C????

Dunno but I'm over it... Prob won't drive it till next year!!!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

No they crack through the plastic and go to ground via the spindle.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Its still beyond me how this button is U/S... It's identical to the grubby old one I fitted. But 100% proven that it is U/S and causing no spark. Must be a hairline fracture that is causing it to be O/C??

Dunno but I'm over it... Prob won't drive it till next year!!!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Pertronix module might still be OK then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Im thinking it most likely is ok.... I just paid for another one from the USA today.... Frig it... Might on sell it if mines ok.

Should point out to that whilst fault finding, I've fitted a brand new dizzy cap: GL278, new points: GL19 and this GL256 rotor button which was practically new....

I would have anticipated that the HT could jump across a fracture... I can't understand how this rotor button causes no spark... I'm still dazed and confused... As I said, its identical to the grubby old one that allows the car to run!!! Fit this one, she dead... Wrapped in plastic.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Its obviopusly stuffed , as you have said , you should try cutting it open to see why it is stuffed .

Should try jumping a spark through it and see what happens.

Im most likely going to take a dump on it.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Hairline crack would not prevent a spark, after all the spark jumps from the end of the rotor to the spark plug lead terminal. My suspicion is a short circuit inside the plastic moulding shorting out to the spring tensioner that keeps it located on the distributor post, and hence diverting all sparks to ground through the distributor shaft.

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Over 1,000,000Km, but now my retirement restoration project

The one and only time I lubricated an early distributor left me with a short cct on the rotor button. The oil soaked into the bakelite and created a path to ground.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.