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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:37 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I used to press train wagon wheels onto axles in a former life- white lead was (and probably still is) the lube of choice. It took a 100T press...
Was that the Davey Press? My brother told me stories of apprentices being given a wheelbarrow and being sent off to fetch the Davey Press.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:40 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I used to press train wagon wheels onto axles in a former life- white lead was (and probably still is) the lube of choice. It took a 100T press...


Yes, but you're a fitter not a knucle dragging mech-I mean of Course you'd UNDERSTAND tapers :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:06 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I used to press train wagon wheels onto axles in a former life- white lead was (and probably still is) the lube of choice. It took a 100T press...
Was that the Davey Press? My brother told me stories of apprentices being given a wheelbarrow and being sent off to fetch the Davey Press.

This was at Clyde wagon works back in the 60s.
I remember the name, I think the Davey press was a big old antique platen press thing that ran on water pressure, at a zillion psi. Wasn't the wagon wheel fitting press.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:25 pm 
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Phat Kat wrote:
A smear of oil.

Yep. Not even kidding, just a film. Stops them fretting and welding themselves on and helps with fit.... don't get me wrong, if its lapped properly you'll still have a hard time getting it off, but it won't distroy the tail (rip the skin off it) and it won't "Spring" off... just slide.

I do it on all of mine, and I still have to use the hydro puller at full tilt to get them off,,, but they come off,,, and they don't wreck anything..


I've always wondered if a little bit of grease on the tail would stop any fretting. A tiny bit of oil 'eh


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:03 pm 
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Having a bit of a chuckle reading this!

Been there...

It takes time, patience and more time but will come off (and give you a hell of a fright when it does)!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:08 pm 
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simon k wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:
A smear of oil.

Yep. Not even kidding, just a film. Stops them fretting and welding themselves on and helps with fit.... don't get me wrong, if its lapped properly you'll still have a hard time getting it off, but it won't distroy the tail (rip the skin off it) and it won't "Spring" off... just slide.

I do it on all of mine, and I still have to use the hydro puller at full tilt to get them off,,, but they come off,,, and they don't wreck anything..


I've always wondered if a little bit of grease on the tail would stop any fretting. A tiny bit of oil 'eh


Yeah :) ... I wouldn't have used grease personally, but it would appear that others are having sucess with it. I went for oil because it was lighter mostly,,,, so it........ gah I don't know it just made me feel better :lol: I was worried (and probably all paranoia) that something as thick as grease could have a bearing on concentricity... I spose the answer is DON'T PUT IT ON THICK :roll: . :lol: I knew oil would do the job, and being a lower viscosity would be able to flow around more if it was thick in one place or something.... I guess with grease, don't put it on too thick :) .... and I don't honestly know what kind off concentric tolerance you're looking at on a crank/flywheel assy..... obviously as close to 0.0000 as possible the better from a balance point of veiw... which was why I reached for 40 wieght oil over grease.

But hey, thats only my thinking, I'm not saying its necessary.... or even necessarily appropriate to a flywheel thats hanging of a looooong tail thats going to whip anyway with different and sudden changes in loads/speeds :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:22 pm 
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My experience is with bikes, where the engine is usually somewhat humanoid. :wink:

Aluminium crank arms do nasty things on steel (usually chro-moly) when there isn't any barrier between them. A very thin film of grease is enough, and it squishes into the decreasing space so much that it's imperceptible if there's any eccentricity not inherent in the "engine".

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:44 pm 
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The Duckmeister wrote:
...A very thin film of grease is enough, and it squishes into the decreasing space so much that it's imperceptible if there's any eccentricity not inherent in the "engine".


Yeah thats what I was thinking too with regards to tolerancing.... I mean, most mains run at 0.001" per 1.00" in diameter (give or take... not just talking mini's.... think out siiIIiiiide the world we know... beyond the sun?) so on a 50mm main your looking at roughly 0.05mm clearance,,, so the 0.02 (or less?) your getting out of the grease is probably going to stack up to a whole lot of nothing in the bigger picture :)

(sorry mate, I come from a different back ground,,, its all perspective :) )


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 8:33 am 
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Well Mr fail,,, the offer is still open to bring it over here & i`ll get it off for you

are you using an "Hydraulic" puller or just one of those thick triangular plate type ones with a bolt through the guts?

& i`m not a big fan of using grease on the taper when fitting the flywheel... makes for a damn good hydraulic suction cup :-) unless you never ever wanted to get the flywheel off again :-)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:44 am 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
& i`m not a big fan of using grease on the taper when fitting the flywheel... makes for a damn good hydraulic suction cup :-) unless you never ever wanted to get the flywheel off again :-)


:) no worries... I'm not a big fan of ruining perfectly good cranks :) :) :)

<edit> Kidding Matt, its all good :) And Mr Frail, listen to what the man says, if you still aren't able to get it off, he'll help you out :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 4:11 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
Well Mr fail,,, the offer is still open to bring it over here & i`ll get it off for you

are you using an "Hydraulic" puller or just one of those thick triangular plate type ones with a bolt through the guts?

& i`m not a big fan of using grease on the taper when fitting the flywheel... makes for a damn good hydraulic suction cup :-) unless you never ever wanted to get the flywheel off again :-)


No probs, i will give it one more try, then if it still won't budge, i'll give u a call.... :wink:
I am useing the triangle one. i couldn't find the bolts for the hydraulic one.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:11 pm 
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Try getting some bolts for the hydraulic one. It will be worth it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 6:13 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Try getting some bolts for the hydraulic one. It will be worth it.


+1000


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:55 pm 
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got it off...
YAY!!! :D :D :D :D :D

Just used a heat gun. spun it around while holing the gun nice and close for a few minutes, then cave it a few little taps on the back and pop...
Too easy 8)
Thanks for the help everyone.....

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:03 pm 
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Ok now its off, i have finally been able to split the engine/gearbox so i can have a look in the gearbox..
What do you think????
Image
Image

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