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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:24 pm 
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OK I just went to the bearing shop.
Front upper arm shafts- to recondition these, bearing inner rings .750"OD x .50"ID x 3/4"L are available, p/no is IRB812-1.
However, I am concerned that as the ID is only 0.50", this might weaken the shaft.

Rear trailing arm shafts- bearing inner rings .8125"OD x .5625"ID x 1"L are available, p/no is IRB916.
I have similar concerns about weakening these too.

{I ordered 2 of each size to play with}.
[Edit] Cancelled the order. After looking at the design some more I have canned this idea. Too much risk of bending the shaft at the inboard end of the inner ring, IMO. It is suspension, if it goes bang because it's weakened and we run off the road, it's my arse and maybe yours too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 7:56 pm 
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Interesting finding Kev and very valid

I was hoping you could get ones that are super thin like a speedy sleeve

Machining new ones from some quality steel is the answer then


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:07 pm 
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A thin `speedy sleeve' won't work with rollers on it.... too soft anyhow. They are only meant for seals really.
I could get some hardened and ground rings made about 1.5mm thick, but by the time you muck about you may as well just knock new shafts up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:57 pm 
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Evan_S wrote:
I like that idea. That'd be relatively easy compared to building a whole new shaft from scratch or hardening the existing one, and probably not too expensive.


Have you tried John Smidt in Sydney, he must have heaps of serviceable shafts lying around. Unless the case hardening has worn thru, used shafts should be ok IMO. And you can rotate them 180 degrees, as GTMowog suggested.

Not a long-term solution for any of us, but it might get you back on the road quicker. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 10:58 pm 
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AEG163job wrote:
Evan_S wrote:
I like that idea. That'd be relatively easy compared to building a whole new shaft from scratch or hardening the existing one, and probably not too expensive.


Have you tried John Smidt in Sydney, he must have heaps of serviceable shafts lying around. Unless the case hardening has worn thru, used shafts should be ok IMO. And you can rotate them 180 degrees, as GTMowog suggested.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try that next.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:22 am 
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As said above, original shafts hardly wear, provided they are kept greased.... This is usually not a problem on the front ones, most are swimming in grease.
As for the rears however, it's amazing how many never see a grease gun because the nipples are hidden. IMO that's why the needle bearings there have a bad reputation (by some).
It's a pity that recent aftermarket shafts are crap material and hardening though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:33 pm 
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Right, I finally got enough time to replace the old bearing. Bad news: the shaft still doesn't fit into the new bearing. Even in the other end of the arm (where it does fit), it's far tighter than in either of the bearings in the arm for the other side of the car. I assume that this means that I've got a dodgy upper arm, so I'll plan to order a replacement from Minisport.

John Smidt doesn't have any second-hand pins/shafts in good condition, so I'm hopefully going to try hardening these ones at uni this week.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:36 pm 
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Karcraft has Quinton Hazell front shafts and bearing kits new, the shafts are hard too (can't file em).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:32 pm 
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Ah, great! Do you happen to know the part number for them?

Edit: is it just the usual part number? QSK213S/2 for the whole repair kit?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:42 am 
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I think it is, they were in a Quinton Hazell box.
They also list the shaft separate, 2A4325/2 but I'm not sure if the same maker.
Enquire from Greg or Tim when ordering.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:35 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
..... has Quinton Hazell front shafts and bearing kits new, the shafts are hard too (can't file em).


They only have a thin skin on them. You might get as much as 12 months from them.

GT mowog wrote:
I haven't explored every 'brand' of shaft on the market of late, however every one I have picked up in recent times (from local and O/S suppliers) have been soft. I've checked them from 11 different suppliers,...........................

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:40 pm 
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Right, that's annoying. I guess it's back to hardening these ones at uni.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:43 pm 
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I bought 4 new upper arm bearings from a Mini parts shop this week. I thought in the back of my mind that they looked a little odd. :?
Had a look at the originals today and I was right-
Originals are a `full complement' needle bearing- the case is full of rollers. NO cage.
New ones are caged- I reckon the number of rollers is halved.
Caged bearings are always inferior is static load capacity due to less rollers, and IMO this will also contribute to the early demise of current available shafts.
Given that the upper arm bearings are basically under static not dynamic loading, I will attempt to source some full complement ones from my friendly local bearing supplier.
ps. I have seen this problem before (on low speed bearings) in the industrial gearbox industry.
pps. I'm using the old shafts as they are unmarked after 40+ years. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 7:33 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I bought 4 new upper arm bearings from a Mini parts shop this week. I thought in the back of my mind that they looked a little odd. :?
Had a look at the originals today and I was right-
Originals are a `full complement' needle bearing- the case is full of rollers. NO cage.
New ones are caged- I reckon the number of rollers is halved.
Caged bearings are always inferior is static load capacity due to less rollers, and IMO this will also contribute to the early demise of current available shafts.
Given that the upper arm bearings are basically under static not dynamic loading, I will attempt to source some full complement ones from my friendly local bearing supplier.
ps. I have seen this problem before (on low speed bearings) in the industrial gearbox industry.
pps. I'm using the old shafts as they are unmarked after 40+ years. 8)


GT mowog wrote:
The bearing in your first pic is correct as it has no cage. Remember, this is a low speed, high load application, so we want maximum bearing surface area / contact.

The one in the lower pic, with the cage, is dimensionally the same, but for high speed, low(er) load applications, usually bathed in oil, like the idler gear in the early gearboxes.

I have noticed some kits are now being suppied with the wrong bearings (idler gear bearings) and...........

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 7:44 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I bought 4 new upper arm bearings from a Mini parts shop this week. I thought in the back of my mind that they looked a little odd. :?
Had a look at the originals today and I was right-
Originals are a `full complement' needle bearing- the case is full of rollers. NO cage.
New ones are caged- I reckon the number of rollers is halved.
Caged bearings are always inferior is static load capacity due to less rollers, and IMO this will also contribute to the early demise of current available shafts.
Given that the upper arm bearings are basically under static not dynamic loading, I will attempt to source some full complement ones from my friendly local bearing supplier.
ps. I have seen this problem before (on low speed bearings) in the industrial gearbox industry.
pps. I'm using the old shafts as they are unmarked after 40+ years. 8)


GT mowog wrote:
The bearing in your first pic is correct as it has no cage. Remember, this is a low speed, high load application, so we want maximum bearing surface area / contact.

The one in the lower pic, with the cage, is dimensionally the same, but for high speed, low(er) load applications, usually bathed in oil, like the idler gear in the early gearboxes.

I have noticed some kits are now being suppied with the wrong bearings (idler gear bearings) and...........

The part number for upper arm bearings in the Mini King parts catalog is 88G302, this number shows on the Minispares site (with pic) as early 3 synchro box idler gear bearing (uncaged),
the number 88G302/1 in the Kc catalog is used for the upper arm, and 88G302/2 for the early 3 synchro box idler bearings.
Whether 88G302/1 and 88G302/2 are the same animal or whether they picked me the wrong bearings, I do not know, I will call em on Monday...
[edit] the price of both bearings in Kc's catalog is identical..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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