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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:02 pm 
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Kennomini wrote:
michaelb wrote:
My 2c worth
Unless the brake cylinders are new or in very good condition then I would bin them.
New ones are $18 to $20 each so old ones are not worth the hassle.

Just keep installing the ones you have (if they are usable) and throw away the ones that leak. If they are in pieces already it's probably not worth rebuilding them so bin those ones but if they look proper just bung them in and see if they work. That way you get to find out what you have, you'll clean up your pile of parts and maybe save some cash.
If they all leak then at least you've learnt how to install, maintain and adjust drum brakes. :) .

I have had a few brand new S rear cylinders leak within 6 months, but after fitting new rubbers they are OK. Obviously the maker didn't use the world's best seals.
I'd say that rekitted s/h cylinders could be as good or better than new ones, particularly so with clutch slave cylinders. But I'd not run old s/h ones without putting new seals in..

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 10:33 pm 
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Doc , where do you get your rubbers from ?

I kept the old cylinders of my car , might be worth rekitting .


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:17 am 
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ahh good point, thanks for that guys


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:22 am 
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also where do you guys go for how to guides? The section here is great but surely being as popular minis are there should be a how to guide on pretty much everything.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:20 am 
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goodie wrote:
Doc , where do you get your rubbers from ?

I kept the old cylinders of my car , might be worth rekitting .

Years ago you could get all these from any brake shop. You still can for the slave cylinder rubber (a 7/8" cup). Perhaps they have the others too, I've not checked lately.
I bought S rear cylinder seals from Karcraft, they have been in for years now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:08 am 
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miniRock wrote:
also where do you guys go for how to guides? The section here is great but surely being as popular minis are there should be a how to guide on pretty much everything.


start with the workshop manual

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:17 pm 
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simon k wrote:
miniRock wrote:
also where do you guys go for how to guides? The section here is great but surely being as popular minis are there should be a how to guide on pretty much everything.


start with the workshop manual

Preferably a local one like Gregorys/Scientific Publishing, or Leyland Australia, not the Haynes `book of lies..' :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:43 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Preferably a local one like Gregorys/Scientific Publishing, or Leyland Australia, not the Haynes `book of lies..' :lol:


aww dear I bought the haynes restoration guide a week ago. still on it's way. how bad is the lies?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:05 pm 
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miniRock wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Preferably a local one like Gregorys/Scientific Publishing, or Leyland Australia, not the Haynes `book of lies..' :lol:


aww dear I bought the haynes restoration guide a week ago. still on it's way. how bad is the lies?


I don't know about the lies, but the SP one is has the australian mini specific stuff, the UK manuals don't have the right details and that's where you get into trouble

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 1:16 pm 
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miniRock wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Preferably a local one like Gregorys/Scientific Publishing, or Leyland Australia, not the Haynes `book of lies..' :lol:


aww dear I bought the haynes restoration guide a week ago. still on it's way. how bad is the lies?


The oil level quoted in the Honda XR600 manual was actually for the XR80, leading to an engine rebuild because I believed them and didn't check (Young man's mistake). It's a very good reference, but as to 'How to' guides, everything is on th'internet in one form or another. Usually very reliable but you'll occasionally encounter rabid discussions on how tight a ball joint should be, for example.

You shouldn't be in over your head. Minis are simple, robust and relatively tolerant of short term abuse; you'll learn heaps! I donated a rear light lens to my mechanic who is helping a guy get a WoF (Roadworthy cert) for his new Mini, which has had a shiny paint job but is lacking various important items, such as stitching in the rear seat belts. Doing it yourself will grant you a mechanical sympathy in vehicle maintenance which will carry on to other engineering areas.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:22 pm 
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sounds like a good plan, slip the mechanic at the servo a case to help with the RWC haha. either way I can see that being down the track. hopefully by the end of the year


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:33 pm 
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miniRock wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Preferably a local one like Gregorys/Scientific Publishing, or Leyland Australia, not the Haynes `book of lies..' :lol:


aww dear I bought the haynes restoration guide a week ago. still on it's way. how bad is the lies?

Haynes resto manual is OK, but their Mini workshop manual is not the best for Australian built cars.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Thanks for that Doc, I'll keep that in mind when using over seas guides


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:41 pm 
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miniRock, welcome to Ausmini.

I'm having flashbacks of getting my first moke in first year engineering and reading the manuals instead of studying!

Is Colin Cole still lecturing in Rocky? He has been there since God was a lad. Lots of good engineers have come from there.

Earlier comments are right, future employers really rate someone who has had their hands dirty, so get in a do as much as you can yourself. It will make you a far better designer if you know how things can (and can't) go together. You will end up getting a lot more respect from the drafters and trades people you'll encounter too. Those guys don't rate purely book-learned engineers with no practical knowledge.

M


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:05 pm 
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Mokesta wrote:
miniRock, welcome to Ausmini.

I'm having flashbacks of getting my first moke in first year engineering and reading the manuals instead of studying!

Is Colin Cole still lecturing in Rocky? He has been there since God was a lad. Lots of good engineers have come from there.

Earlier comments are right, future employers really rate someone who has had their hands dirty, so get in a do as much as you can yourself. It will make you a far better designer if you know how things can (and can't) go together. You will end up getting a lot more respect from the drafters and trades people you'll encounter too. Those guys don't rate purely book-learned engineers with no practical knowledge.

M


Haven't studied under Colin but his name pops up now and then. I can see myself doing the same, I mean it's mechanical so it's kind of like studying right?

bonus to hear about future employers too, especially considering I'm hoping to get a placement in the design field next time, as fun as construction is :)


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