Yes.
If too tight (lumpy when turned) with the nut done up I would undo it 1 slot and refit the pin.
You could shim between but really there is no need, it's the equivalent of a common RWD HoLFalVal front hub setup (there is no drive through the assembly, & shaft is static).
Too tight assembly is far worse than slightly loose as it will brinell (aka stuff) the bearings.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

you know how to pack them with grease?

put a 20 cent piece sized glob on the palm of your hand, then push the bearing down on to it side-on so that the grease is forced between the needles

theres a video on youtube for everything, what a sad, sad world... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXYvJv-zWlw

I'm more heavy handed than that guy, and I only do it from one side, keep going until grease comes out the top, that way you know all the air is out

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Leave an airspace between the bearings, don't pack the hub solid.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Next up: lots of wheel bearing noise from the front left wheel. Looked like this with the wheel off

Drum off, grease on the shoes

Inside the drum


They are the ball bearing type for front drum cars. Anyone suggest a good brand to replace it with?

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Can't go wrong with timken, but have not had problems with the pattern rears...but I don't do that many miles.

Is that brake fluid though?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

If fitting new bearings (either ball or tapered roller) to drum brake hubs, check the bearings are a neat, slide-on fit with the drive flange. Polish the drive flange diameter with 240 wet&dry paper if necessary.
If there are grooves worn where the old bearings sat, bin the drive flange and fit a better one.

Cooper-
Note that 997/998 Cooper drive flanges are NLA, if anyone has any worn ones do not bin them, contact me by PM.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are the bearings the same for drum and disc hubs? I can't find any Timken tapered bearings around that say they suit drums.

When I fit these bearings last year they were a good fit on the drive flanges, and they didn't have any grooves worn in them.

I'm 99% sure it is grease and not brake fluid. It was sounding like a worn wheel bearing when I drove it last

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Yes the Timkens tapered rollers will fit drum brakes, no problem. But some dills at Mini shops in UK (who don't own Minis?) will say otherwise as they are not shown thus in the parts books.

Only thing to watch is the inner oil seal spacer (split ring) that goes behind the inner seal. A `ball bearing' one is 2.38mm thick and a roller bearing (ie S) one is 5.81mm.
Note the Mini Car Clinic parts book has these thicknesses arse about. The roller bearing one is wider because the outer ring is narrower.
You could put 2x narrow ones in, it will be close enough. Or do without (put the seal just flush but no deeper).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Id also get new brake shoes as well

Thanks, that's good to know. Minisport Au has the Cooper S spacers 21A1307 listed on their site, and their Timken bearings are about the same price as KC. Otherwise I'll skip the spacers?

I've got them on the list already...

Hmmmm. I'd say it is bearing grease.

It's gone all runny and ended up on the inside of the shoe and drum and all the way to the bottom ball joint.

And there is not much left on the ball bearings


So I'm thinking either:
I didn't grease them up properly (I did pack them pretty well, and the mechanic was happy with them)
I used the wrong grease (I used castrol high temp wheel bearing grease)
Didn't put the oil seals in properly
The brakes have got really hot and the grease has oozed out (I'm not sure if the drum is slightly out of round, but it seems to get hot often)

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I'd say you packed them too tight....
I only used Mobil Super lithium grease, much thinner but it's done 70,000 miles or more since fitting. And it stays in (I have S discs).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I used a red and tacky grease on my bearings like this http://lucasoilsales.com/index.php?main ... 7e55d0c571 http://www.lucasoil.co.uk/products.php? ... roduct=116 ill check the can tomorrow the boys at nepean spares at st marys told me to use it

The castrol HTB grease is fine. I've used litres of it, from mini's to trailer to trucks. Never had a problem with the grease liquifying.

I would say either the wheel bearing is a bit tight and generating a lot of heat, or the brakes literally cook, but normally you can tell the shoes overheat just by looking at them. Or like drmini says.

OK thanks. I might get the bearing disassembled and cleaned up and get them put in by the mechanic here.

Thanks, I'll check that out

I did them up to the torque setting, so they shouldn't have been too tight? The front left drum does get really hot, especially the last few times I've driven it. If I back the adjusters off so it doesn't get hot the brakes don't work very well and the pedal is low. I'm thinking maybe the drum is out of round

Is it work getting the tapered bearings? I replaced the front 2 bearings last year with ball bearing ones and the back ones a few months ago. I assume it's not good to have a different style of bearings on each of the front wheels?
The one ball bearing would set me back ~$35, and the two tapered ones would be ~$140.

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Check the price at Kc or Minis Plus, they are not that dear.
If one side gets hot the preload may be too great when torqued up (spacer too narrow).
Read my front wheel bearing thread in the how-to forum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.