I'm convinced on the 2 core one now. It might help to "future proof" the cooling system for any further modifications down the track. And $230 for a really good radiator is a lot cheaper than a rebuild after cooking the engine.

I did say a few...

That seems like an easier way to do it than I did. I might have to give it a go getting it back in.

I might give it a straighten up and then keep it stored as a spare. Should I keep it dry or is it best to put something in it?

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It's OK to keep reconditioned ones dry.
If it's pretty clean inside I would run radiator cleaner through it before you take it out, then store it dry too. But some folks do fill them with water for storage.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I did run some cleaner through it before I removed it so it should be good then thanks!

The vacuum advance line from the carby to the distributor had what I assume is a one way valve in it. The line must have been a bit fragile because it broke when I moved it to the side to change the thermostat housing etc.

Do I need a metal line with the valve or can I just use a bit of rubber vacuum line?

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It would seem according to minispares that the metal one with the vacuum chamber is not needed anymore. I assume then that a simple rubber vacuum line would be fine to use

http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... o%20search

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New question: these two nuts are completely loose and about to fall off. Should I have noticed something different happening to the clutch recently?

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Tim , you don't need the nuts throw them away.

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

They're a little bit of a leftover, with their actual purpose lost in time...

I haven't had these on my mini for a very long time. They once used to prevent over extension of the clutch which lead to damage, but it seems these days that:
1. Mini clutches slave cylinders don't push far enough to cause damage, and/or
2. the clutch plates (at least the diaphragm type post 62) don't want to be damaged by over extension.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks guys, that's good to know

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If the clutch hose fails you might just need those nuts.

I might just tighten them up and hope for the best then. Is there a method to setting how far out they are from the clutch cover?

On another note, are all dry front subframes the same? If I bought one from a clubman would it fit my car fine?

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Dry subframes are all the same.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Thanks, I've got my eye on one from a clubman and didn't want to waste my money!

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This turned out to be a bad decision as I tightened them up pretty tight with my fingers and they wouldn't spin anymore. (I thought)

I got halfway to work this morning and then the clutch pedal was not disengaging properly. I thought I'd ruined the clutch or something and was grinding the gears at the traffic lights trying to get first gear. I stopped as soon as I could and saw that these nuts had worked their way down the thread and was preventing me from pushing the clutch in. They were promptly removed and now the car works fine.

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Correct method is adjust the stop nuts AFTER setting the clutch arm gap to .020".
As you found, if they are too close they prevent clutch disengagement.

As said in another thread, for years I have left them off, and the return spring too. I set the clutch arm stop gap to ~1mm.
The tiny spring in the clutch slave cylinder then makes the clutch self-adjusting, like 99% of all cars built since 1980 including the Mini (with verto clutch).
I run an orange dot diaphragm, with standard 7W5-8 type release bearing, and it ain't broke yet.

As I still have a `Matic heater above it, this also saves me having to pull the grille out to adjust the clutch.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The correct setup and gap is outlined in the workshop manual if you do decide to put them back on. The two nuts need to be locked together tight to prevent them moving along the thread, sounds like your became loose.

As mentioned they are basically supposed to be a safety stop to prevent damage to the motor. It looks like yours were originally so far away from the clutch cover they may as well have been not there anyway.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)