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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 6:35 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Wellington,
Booglie wrote:
Sorry I didn't get back to you on this one, last time I removed the head there was no damage and the engine worked perfectly after the head was replaced, untill today. Unfortunately this has happened yet again and this time I wasn't so lucky.

This is the inlet valve and guide from number 2 piston, as you can see the guide has been smashed to pieces, fortunately there was no damage to anything on the head.

Image

The following two pictures are of pistons 1 and 2 after a bit of a clean. You can clearly see where the rest of the guide went, are these two pistons now ruined and in need of replacement? I would rather not do this if possible as the engine was rebuild only 2 months ago.

Image


Just for clarity is the pic of the valve guide as its broken off the head or after you have removed it.
It looks like it's snapped inside the head casting.

If so its a very strange place to break where it did
Kiwiinwgtn


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 11:05 am 
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848cc
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Location: Grafton, NSW
that is after I removed it from the head, the guide was loose and moving up and down freely.


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 12:00 pm 
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Booglie wrote:
The head will be going in for new guides tomorrow and ill ask shop how the seats look

Seats usually need recutting after fitting new guides. Reason: the hole in the guide is not always concentric.
It takes them hardly any time to recut the seats. Take the valves too, they probably need refacing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 3:57 pm 
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What is so special about bronze guides and are they suitable for a road car


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 4:56 pm 
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Booglie wrote:
What is so special about bronze guides and are they suitable for a road car


Bronze guides conduct heat better. Hence why Mk1 Cooper S, Alfas, Fiats etc use them.
They are also a better choice for use with SS (uncoated stem) valves.

However there are downsides:
1. They close up a bit when pressed in, and MUST be reamed to size before use.
2. They can close up a bit after a few heat cycles.
3. They (allegedly) wear faster, however I've done 50K miles with mine and 1.5 forged rockers, all are still good.

For racing you are better off getting the original iron guides K-lined. These are a thin spiral bronze bush, you can run them closer clearance on the valve. They cost more than bronze ones but are worth it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 6:13 pm 
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848cc
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The head is getting bronze guides although the guy at the shop seems to think they will only last a month or two, which didn't sound correct to me.


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:34 pm 
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1098cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
Booglie wrote:
What is so special about bronze guides and are they suitable for a road car


Bronze guides conduct heat better. Hence why Mk1 Cooper S, Alfas, Fiats etc use them.
They are also a better choice for use with SS (uncoated stem) valves.

However there are downsides:
1. They close up a bit when pressed in, and MUST be reamed to size before use.
2. They can close up a bit after a few heat cycles.
3. They (allegedly) wear faster, however I've done 50K miles with mine and 1.5 forged rockers, all are still good.

For racing you are better off getting the original iron guides K-lined. These are a thin spiral bronze bush, you can run them closer clearance on the valve. They cost more than bronze ones but are worth it.


What should the running clearance be after reaming a guide.


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:56 pm 
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The valves are undersized for clearance in a 9/32" (0.28125") guide. I used a solid 9/32" reamer to do mine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 5:59 pm 
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On measurement , naming and sizing: Is it normal for valve stem diameter to be quoted in literature/info etc. Re valves-- I often see long or short, info about everything else but i suppose assumes it is a known stem size for minis???? () Getting back to reaming, if i went new fangled and metric on a race build, 6mm stems , do you buy a S6 reamer??? - or 6mmplus whatever tolerance is wanted ( i should remember for valve guides)


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 12:53 pm 
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My Leyland Black book states inlet stem dia is 0.2793-0.2798", exhaust is 0.2788-0.2793"
It further states inlet stem clearance is 0.0015-0.0025", and exhaust is 0.002-0.003".

A 9/32" reamer is 0.28125"diameter.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 8:43 am 
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thanks Doc. i think i'll have to hunt down that black book. I have a few different manuals but not that book


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 Post subject: Re: What caused this
PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 9:43 am 
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FNQ wrote:
thanks Doc. i think i'll have to hunt down that black book. I have a few different manuals but not that book


Here it is-
http://www.pitstop.net.au/products/mini ... lack-book/

It does have its share of errors, I bought mine for the full auto tranny section it contains.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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