Thanks Jonnoh for that comment. I'm thinking that it might be an interesting modification.

The only other purple cables are both from fuse A2 - 1 for the horn and 1 for the interior courtesy light. Both of these work without the ignition "on" and draw fused current direct from the battery at fuse A1.

The workshop manuals do not show a power supply to the horn/indicator switch obviously because they didn't plan on using it for the main beam flasher.

I once thought about reconnecting these wires in the indicator switch to use it as a flasher but gave up when I realised there was no power supply into the switch. Obviously the purple wire is it.

And if you did that, you might as well connect the main/dip beam wires through the indicator switch too and delete the floor switch completely.... if that makes any sense?

my floor switch melted years and years ago, so I put some relays in and hooked up the stalk with high/low beam and flasher... feels like a modern car

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Ditto. No more burned out switches, and the flasher is great too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK
The horn wire from the indicator stalk connects to ground so you can't get power from there although you could run a wire as you say from the fuse block that will have +12V all the time and connect it to the purple wire on the stalk. Just make sure the wire can cope with 10A unless using a relay for the high beam.

High and low beam connect directly from the floor switch to the same corresponding colours to the stalk.

I've severely modified the wiring in my mini; used relays for high and low beam, ignition and fuel pump and added an immobiliser, as well as got rid of the floor switch (partly because I couldn't manage to step on the bloody thing in the dark), added a few more fuses (two are just too few) but I am really quite worried Ive done something wrong somewhere because I can't realistically check it until I install it in the car.

What year did the Australian produced Minis get fitted with headlight flash if they did? I remember being told by a late Mini Guru friend that no Australian produced Mini ever had headlight flash. Someone else might know different.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

They all have flash !
You just reach down and flick the light switch on-off quickly a few times

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

I don't believe any Oz Minis got flash. Only became available here on new switch assemblies bought as spare parts. Whether Lucas or aftermarket I am not sure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My '70 and '71 Mini K's had the flasher function wires cut, but neither had the floor dipswitch, my '69 did. High beam was on the stalk on the '70s cars.

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I am just beginning to see that when purple leads are used, for horn and courtesy light, then power goes to the instrument first (so it is always live) and the switch turns them on by earthing their circuit. The horn return wire (purple/black) in the stalk mechanism will be going to earth inside the stalk mechanism through the black lead.
But there is a purple wire (the cut one discussed above). That will be for power-in from permanently powered Fuse 2 - same as horn and courtesy light feed. When the stalk is pulled back against the spring loading, that purple lead contacts the blue/white high beam wire. And this happens separately from the light switch on the dash. Thanks for that.