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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 5:17 pm 
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Location: Vermont South Vic
Had a great day on the little bugger today.
Fitted a new (new to me) distributor
Fitted a new washer bottle and pump
Fitted new wiring loom to the headlights
Fitted new kick plates
Raised front and rear suspension as they had both "settled"after installation
Jumped in and she's never driven so well.
Yee ha!! :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Having discovered that the horn button isn't fully connected, I set about trying to get the steering wheel off to have a crack at hooking it back up. Only to discover that I don't have a socket big enough to get onto the nut. :x Return that job to the backburner.

Checked coolant, oil & brake fluid levels & topped up as required (oil good, others a bit low).

Tightened catch plate on the passenger door, which is still only a temporary measure. Discovered that part of it had actually broken off, which in conjunction with the remaining two mounting bolts being loose meant closing the door was a challenging affair 'cos the block moved! Will go to my local Mini spares place sometime & chase out a replacement, along with some floor catches for the rear of the seat rails.

Gave the engine a wipe over to get rid of some excess oil spray.

Jacked up the front end so I could pull a wheel of in order to discover what size brake rotors I have and also find some size info on the rims. 7.5" discs & 12x4.5" wheels. I already knew the 12" bit, just wasn't sure of the width.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:56 pm 
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The Duckmeister wrote:
Having discovered that the horn button isn't fully connected, I set about trying to get the steering wheel off to have a crack at hooking it back up. Only to discover that I don't have a socket big enough to get onto the nut..


I know this is a little dodgy but a common method with the nut is to drill the beginning of a hole in the top of the nut near the edge then use a drift/punch/old screwdriver and hammer at an angle to loosen it. Someone has done this with my nut but I'm lucky as I have the right socket.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:09 pm 
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Most horn problems can be fixed without removing the wheel.
It is usually the contact on the blinker switch to the column that is the problem.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Location: melbourne ferntreegully
went on run from melb to korumburra for fish and chips with 9 other minis
for pink ribbon day :D :D


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:13 pm 
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bolted my car to another rotissery, that i took ages in making

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:26 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Most horn problems can be fixed without removing the wheel.
It is usually the contact on the blinker switch to the column that is the problem.

Not in this instance. I popped the button off to find no wires connected to it! And only one wire mounted to the hub of the wheel. It definitely has to come off this time. I'll chase out a socket tomorrow, & if that fails I'll try the method suggested by phillb.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:31 pm 
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The Duckmeister wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
Most horn problems can be fixed without removing the wheel.
It is usually the contact on the blinker switch to the column that is the problem.

Not in this instance. I popped the button off to find no wires connected to it! And only one wire mounted to the hub of the wheel. It definitely has to come off this time. I'll chase out a socket tomorrow, & if that fails I'll try the method suggested by phillb.
There is only one wire and it sits in the end of the column. The horn button just earths that wire to the column to complete the circuit.

If you short the contact on the blinker switch to earth does the horn blow?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:40 pm 
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A few times when was able to drive it on an unreg. permit (currently not roadied or registered. :( ) I found that it would very briefly "chirp" if I had to manually cancel the indicator from a right turn. Never got a noise from actually pressing the button.

I haven't investigated around the blinker switch yet, I'll have a poke around tomorrow.

And if there is only one wire, where does the second terminal on the back of the button assembly connect to in order to complete the circuit? Does it just rest against the tip of the steering column?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:46 pm 
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It rests inside the steering wheel, and earths to the metal hub inside it.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Thanks M1100 & Doc. :)

The offending bits:
Image

So if I connect that wire to the terminal near the edge of the button assembly, the other terminal should rest on the hub of the column?
If I still don't get noise, I'll have a poke around further down.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:09 pm 
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It is never going to work! That is a later column which has the horn on the end of the blinker arm.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:16 pm 
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Sold It.... :(

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:26 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
It is never going to work! That is a later column which has the horn on the end of the blinker arm.
Well I would never have discovered that by myself!! Thanks heaps. Just went out to check, and whaddya know, it works! :)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:30 pm 
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The Duckmeister wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
It is never going to work! That is a later column which has the horn on the end of the blinker arm.
Well I would never have discovered that by myself!! Thanks heaps. Just went out to check, and whaddya know, it works! :)


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

The Duckmeister wrote:
I found that it would very briefly "chirp" if I had to manually cancel the indicator from a right turn.

I wonder why that would be? :mrgreen:


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