had all the parts delivered i need to rebuild both subframes, bought cut off wheels for the grinder to cut floors out. and last but not least bought two slabs of beer to do the job

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busier than a 0ne legged man in a butt kicking competion

After removing the torque converter easily with my DrMini puller I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the torque converter housing off a Morris 1300 automatic.
I bought the Leyland `black book' workshop manual years ago, only because it appeared to have the full automatic box supplement.
Not bloody so... for removal of this housing, the muppets who wrote it refer you to the relevant pages on how to remove a flywheel housing (manual).

However, (no thanks to this manual) the nut on the autobox input shaft has to be removed first, which means tool xyz is needed to hold the primary gear splines.. which of course are NOT the same as a manual one.
Tomorrow's project- finish making tool xyz...
/end rant

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

poor bugger kept stalling at the lights and I just made it home - now back in teh garage and won't start

guess here's my first problem since she was going again, but now off to learn about adjusting the idle speed or giving the carby a go over, hopefully it is something simple

bugger

NOTHING

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

RWC check today to finally get her registered after 2 years of ownership oh and a service at Link Automotive in Melb.

Nice big list of things to get sorted next week:
Rear brake cylinders (done today)
Oil leaks: timing cover & primary gear seals
Play in ball joints & rear wheel bearings (nothing unsafe)
Tie Rod ends
Caster bar and lower inner bushes
Rack tension washers
Door hinge pins and bushes
Steering column bushes
Reverse Lights switch melted by exhaust

Gave her a wash to celebrate finally having a list!

What are you doing to your automatic?

A member here bought a s/h Morris 1300 motor and box from Mini King. He wants the block crank and rods to build a quick stroker motor.
My deal is- I take the box off and keep it, you take the rest... no charge.
But it's turned into a longer process than I thought.
No worries, I will need this tool anyway to reassemble it.

I already have a spare 1100S auto block, one day I might build an auto (it might be for my wheelchair by then)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i dropped the 850 drivers seat and material off to the trimmer.

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Dog Food! Most kids like it more than Broccoli.

Part 2: The old hose inevitably twisted off, so that was a bit stuffed. Fortunately the booster came with a very lengthy bit of hose attached. Some careful jiggling & bending revealed that it would actually be long enough to do both MC -> booster & booster -> splitter hoses, so I cut it to suit. Took the bits to my local Mini shop (Mini Spares & Repairs in Seaford, Vic. ) & got the end fittings & flares done to finish the two "new" hoses.

Also took my gear lever to se what they thought of the situation on that front - looks like the "cradle" in the lever/rod linkage box is rather tired.

Back home, plumbed in the brake lines & bled the system. All good.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

Pushed the mini project out of the garage on its own wheels for the first time in 3 years
Then pushed it back in as I have a family lunch to attend

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

replaced my generator - the charge light was still not going off, replaced the regulator, bingo, thank you to Alex in Brisbane for a cheap regulator and generator, most appreciated

now to work out why she keeps stalling when the engine is warm - no problems starting cold and runnin, just when I've been driving for 20 mins or so and come to traffic lights etc, she stalls and has difficulty restarting

Made an electrolysis tank to fit the 998 block into. Been cooking away now for 3 hours - So far so good!

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Cut more rust out, started work on my fibreglass centre console and lower dash pad. need to figure out a way to make a one piece that fits in easily however.

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So... I'm Seifer

Replaced drivers sliding window seals and passenger rear door seals. Just have to do the others now. Pulling out the old window seals is a bi#ch.

Replaced glass in side doors, regulators, winders etc - lovely action now. Also refitted locks etc to driver's side and working on passenger door, but too excited about the RWC now so off with the kids to start getting ready. Whooooop!!!