dont think its gunna hurt it.

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i like to drive on rails

4000rpm is nothing in an 1100, they gave peak power at 5,250rpm when stock.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

what is the redline for a 1100??? coz i have my shiftlight set at 4500rpm jus coz im scared to take it any further, dont wanna hurt a year old engine.

also..... as meenie was saying (pretty much the same boat here execpt twin su's n some mild work done to it) feels like the car is screaming...... wats the petrol consumption like at 3700ish rpm with twin 1.5" su's???
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

On a stock 1098, redline 5500.

We drove a 1293 around Tassie with twin 1.5" SUs and it was quite economical, even running a Mini-K 3.65 diff. Well, compared to what my 1360 with 45DHLA Dellorto would be...

Your fuel economy will depend entirely on how well it's jetted and how hard you drive it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It was running rich but then had the jetting adjusted so its like a tiny tiny bit rich now..... it stays under 3500rpm the majority of the time unless im in the mood to let the engine work hehe would it chew through petrol at 3800rpm??? cruisin at that rpm i mean
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

Twin SU`s of any kind (if set up well) will produce far better economy than a single, so lets not get into the "2 carbs chew more juice" argument, cause it`s simply not the case

Just because there`s 2 carbs doesn`t mean that it`s using twice the juice...---> each pistron is still sucking through one carb at a time (for want of a better description) the benefits from a twin carb set up are that there is a far more even distribytion of mixture across all 4 cyls & also there is way less restriction of airflow, so it`s simply a far more efficient design--> threfor more power is avaliable when you plant the foot,,, but also less fuel used when on light throttle.

also if you`re game (& if your engine isn`t too high in compression ratio) then you can crank up the ign advance a tad & add a vac advance unit (if you don`t allready have one) to save even more juice,,, but ontop of all that, if you drive with light throttle as much as posible then you will save heaps. Aprox 85-90kmph is the most effective/efficient/economical speed, & maybe stick to the back of a truck & let him suck you along ok, dangerous, so dis-regard that last statement

& 5000 rpms is not really bad for any engine, even helps clean out the carbon deposits just that if you look/read thru your owners manual, it will tell you that driving for prolonged periods of time at high revs will consume oil believe it or not,,, funny hey?,,, the factory warn you that you mini will chew oil if you thrash it, i thought that was very conciderate of them to let you know that they can`t build a high reving engine without chewing oil

My 1510 donk sits happilly on 7500rpms all day,,, & it has done that many many times, including 2000kms of Targa Tasmania Rally, & that`s after nearly 7 years of thrashing around the roads as my daily driver & at race meets twice a month. Dam good thing that donk

& everyone can stick their tall 2.9---&---2.7 diff ratios up their low reving doey pig. no acceleration, can`t rev, under powered engined exhaust pipes dam even a 3.4 is way to tall for the average mini... poor little things can`t get a good reving in top gear. you all should be ashamed of yourselves,,, well the ones with 2.9 & 2.7s anyways

ok,,, i`m finished now,,, scald me if you will,,, i`m ready,,, i can handle rejection, i can take a bashing, common, you know you want to

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

lol im surprised this thread got revived, well the body shell is almost ready, just a couple more days to go, then hopefully the twinky head kit will be out in the next couple of months. i'll stick with my diff (whatever it is, a+ 1275) and screw getting a 5 speed etc.
i think the moral of this story (thread) is anythings possible with alot of cash, but you cant blame somebody for asking if theres a cheaper way, have a look at the miniman, if you didnt start your twinky head conversions we'd still be looking at kad and jack knight heads thinking they cost to much and there should be a better way.
true?

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

yea but if there was a cheap easy way to get 5th gear then everyone would be doing it..
look at the supercharger kits for instance, or the massive amount of starlet minis on the way..

its easier to plonk a different donk..

though i'd be interested to see the cost of a second hand rover 5 spd gearbox

this may be a stupid question but what is a donk???

very interesting that twin su's are more efficient, cheers me up a lil
so an hour crusin at 100km/h at 4000rpm wont hurt the engine, just chew through oil and fuel???
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

minis are economical at speed too

David Vizard in "How to Modify Your Mini" explains the reason for twins being more efficient than a single. It's due to the siamese intake ports.

Spaceboy is right. People gor for the cheapest way to get the same outcome. Im going down supercharger route. For what cost areoun 1000 -1200 bucks for gives around 40 -50% power gain (7psi). Definitely worth it. The Starlet conversion even more so. Both these mods give really good 'Band For Buck!'

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

whose kit are you going with slinc, l might be making my own if i can improve my welding skills

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

Slinkey i want in on a supercharger kit if its around 1000-1200 bucks!!!! pm me if u got the details and everything on that plz or anyone else that has full kits around that price extremely interested
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

Uh...? '92' on Ausmini makes them. Costs 850 bucks. then you go buy SC12 supercharger and carby and yeah. Haven't you guys seen this? It's been on tons of threads, search for SC12 and see what comes up. If you are a good welder/fabricater you can get away even cheaper but I've seen the results of this kit and were quite happy. A few people in NZ have got the same kit, which was mailed to them.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Well said miniman as always...

5th gear has problems too, it is not the finite answer. Because it is taller than 1:1 ratio, ever thought: "how long would a tiny little gear last at higher ratio than the engine is running on a mini with 100+ ft/lbs?" The answer probably is NOT VERY.

If you want a 110km/h at low revs, buy a commodore/ford. Minis are made to rev, they are very revvy little engines, they thrive on it and you would be surprised at how much punishment they can take if built right.

There is no economy spending $5000 on a 5speed gearbox just to outlast a normal $5000 1275 4spd engine build by 25% longer cause that's how much you would probably gain in longevity from revving it at a lower speed on the freeway than a 4spd engine would. Just build 2 4spd engines really well.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K