my last rebuild took 24 months (had a child in between)

I am putting the twin Su 1.5 on once my new headers arrive

Then the Dizzy will be next

Cheers

B

I'm not sure if this curve is right or not, I found it shown on the MM website for both the D176600 (std ignitor, vac advance dizzy) and the D170600 (Ignitor II, HP dizzy with no vac advance). The blurb I have from retrorockets on the latter (which we bought) says it has "an aggressive mechanical advance curve".
I have emailed Retrorockets to see if they have any info.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's good to read-now I have a "aggressive advance curve" and a "lumpy cam"

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Me too, should go well with my `mechanical advantage rockers'.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Retrorockets have replied to my email, apparently the curve shown is correct for both the Pertronix D170600 and D176600 dizzys.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sorry to dig up an old thread,
I want to get a Ignitor II kit for my 25D now I can't tell which dizzies their kits fit, they only seem to say "IGNITOR II LUCAS 4 CYL".
Does anyone have a part number that they know will fit?

Cheers,
Alex

Here ya go...
http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /lucas.htm

Much cheaper to buy there than here in Oz.

Hmmm looks like no Pertronix II made for a 25D.
Why does it have to be a 25D??? There have been better Lucas dizzys made since.

<edit> Original Pertronix works fine, I ran one for years. Just don't leave ignition turned on with motor stopped, or you will fry it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well it doesn't have to be a 25D but a 25D will look right on the motor and I just spent a fair bit of time rebuilding it, not to mention buying a new cap and rotor button, so it would feel a waste to now leave it sitting on the shelf...

Thats frustrating that they don't make an ignitor 2 it sounds like a very good system... I wonder if the "IGNITOR II LUCAS 4 CYL" would fit?

You need a Pertronix part number for it, that description is too general. These things are dizzy model specific.
Why not go to that link I gave above and email them the question.. yes they do answer!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well email sent, I will post the reply on here when it comes.

I sent an email asking if the igniytor 11 can fit the 25D, this is their answer (direct from Pertronix themselves):

Matthew, because of the small diameter and congested insides of the 25D
distributor the kit requires a "small" module. Due to the additional
electronics stuffed into the IgnitorII module it is only available with a
"standard" or large module. Real estate plain and simple... I don't know if
you noticed or not but we have designed a distributor that replaces the 25D
and other distributors that is available in a performance version without
vacuum advance and the IgnitorII electronics. Follow link for details.
http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/dist/british.aspx

PerTronix

So the answer is, Ignitor 1 module for the 25D (or 23D etc) and ignitor 1 OR 11 module (or complete 45D based dizzy) for the 45D dizzy.

Bummer.

M[/url]

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

^^ Thats pretty much the exact answer I got from them as well.

So Ignitor I module and 1.5 Ohm coild now ordered
I can't wait to get it together

If running an Ignitor 1, you need a 3 ohm coil on 4 cyl dizzys, unless you are going to add a ballast resistor.

Just remember- DON'T leave the ignition on and motor not running for more than 30 secs, or you can burn the ignitor 1 out. But Ignitor 2 doesn't have this problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

They didn't tell me that, they said the 1.5 ohm would be perfect... How do I add a ballast resistor? and is better to run a 3 Ohm or a 1.5 and a ballast?

If you have a late Rover Mini with the pink ign wire to coil ,it is already a 1.5 ohm resistor wire.
Otherwise, any spares place eg Supercrap or AutoBarn will sell you a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor, you just wire it in series with the 1.5 ohm coil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.