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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:54 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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I'm pretty sure Tony modifies them so when you buy them they drop right in.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Who is Tony and where are the purchased from?

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:58 pm 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Hanra wrote:
Who is Tony and where are the purchased from?


Sorry, Tony is "convertiblemini" (or however it is spelt) on here. PM him and he should be able to sort you out. They should spin the motor as if it has no compression :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:03 pm 
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Sweet, all i gotta do then is bring myself to turn the key!

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:16 pm 
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had a mate who,s moke would not fire,so i ran two batterys one for the coil,and one for the starter,fired up second go,don,t know why it would not fire on one battery,but after starting on two batterys,was able to start and run on one,lets face it its a mini,its going to give you griefe....long live the a series....


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:40 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
minimy wrote:
had a mate who,s moke would not fire,so i ran two batterys one for the coil,and one for the starter,fired up second go,don,t know why it would not fire on one battery,but after starting on two batterys,was able to start and run on one,lets face it its a mini,its going to give you griefe....long live the a series....


that's pretty much eggzackery the problem matt had here. the starter motor drew so much current from the battery, that it caused the voltage to drop for the entire car. Once the voltage dropped, the coil was not able to reach a voltage high enough to jump the spark plug gap, so the motor wouldn't start.

Putting a battery in with a higher CCA (cold cranking amp) capacity would also help to prevent this even further.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:55 pm 
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My Cooper S had a problem with the ignition switch. When the key was running the starter it would not supply enough power to the ignition for the motor to start.
A hot wire from the solenoid to the coil fixed the problem till I could come up with the real solution which was to ditch the aftermarket Ignition/Steering lock switch and go back to the proper ignition switch.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:28 pm 
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1275cc
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Mick wrote:
minimy wrote:
had a mate who,s moke would not fire,so i ran two batterys one for the coil,and one for the starter,fired up second go,don,t know why it would not fire on one battery,but after starting on two batterys,was able to start and run on one,lets face it its a mini,its going to give you griefe....long live the a series....


that's pretty much eggzackery the problem matt had here. the starter motor drew so much current from the battery, that it caused the voltage to drop for the entire car. Once the voltage dropped, the coil was not able to reach a voltage high enough to jump the spark plug gap, so the motor wouldn't start.

Putting a battery in with a higher CCA (cold cranking amp) capacity would also help to prevent this even further.


That was part of the problem, the main problem was the lucas starter did not have enough power to turn the motor at more than a snail's pace.

Hooking up a 600CCA fully charged battery had no effect, hooking up jumpers to a second battery didn't do anything either.

It just needed a more 'powerful' starter to spin it quicker (and i think it drains less current, so better spark helped too!)

M

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:32 pm 
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1275cc
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Morris 1100 wrote:
My Cooper S had a problem with the ignition switch. When the key was running the starter it would not supply enough power to the ignition for the motor to start.
A hot wire from the solenoid to the coil fixed the problem till I could come up with the real solution which was to ditch the aftermarket Ignition/Steering lock switch and go back to the proper ignition switch.


Yeh, my deluxe had that problem, solved that one by binning the ignition switch altogether for that one. It's a start button now where the key used to be!

Animal only uses the ignition switch to turn to 'on'. The starter is operated by a sart button between the seats!! :wink:

M

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:39 pm 
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Matt68 wrote:
Mick wrote:
minimy wrote:
had a mate who,s moke would not fire,so i ran two batterys one for the coil,and one for the starter,fired up second go,don,t know why it would not fire on one battery,but after starting on two batterys,was able to start and run on one,lets face it its a mini,its going to give you griefe....long live the a series....


that's pretty much eggzackery the problem matt had here. the starter motor drew so much current from the battery, that it caused the voltage to drop for the entire car. Once the voltage dropped, the coil was not able to reach a voltage high enough to jump the spark plug gap, so the motor wouldn't start.

Putting a battery in with a higher CCA (cold cranking amp) capacity would also help to prevent this even further.


That was part of the problem, the main problem was the lucas starter did not have enough power to turn the motor at more than a snail's pace.

Hooking up a 600CCA fully charged battery had no effect, hooking up jumpers to a second battery didn't do anything either.

It just needed a more 'powerful' starter to spin it quicker (and i think it drains less current, so better spark helped too!)

M
And to think that the humble Lucas starter from a Mini was capable of starting a Repco Brabham V8 3 litre Formula 1 engine. :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:40 pm 
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1018cc wrote:
I'm pretty sure Tony modifies them so when you buy them they drop right in.


Yep, Convertiblemini mods them for a drop in fitment, a fairly major mod by the look of it that i wouldn't recommend for a beginner.

Good stuff.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 8:29 am 
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998cc
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Hanra wrote:
Are these starters a drop in fit? Or moding required?


Brad, I have one on my race car, they are a drop in fit, only change required is the wiring which Tony supplies with the starter, with full instructions. A very well done modification and works a treat. Drop round if you want to eyeball.

Matt, good one, hope to see you out on the track sometime.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 12:57 pm 
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justminis wrote:
Hanra wrote:
Are these starters a drop in fit? Or moding required?


Brad, I have one on my race car, they are a drop in fit, only change required is the wiring which Tony supplies with the starter, with full instructions. A very well done modification and works a treat. Drop round if you want to eyeball.

Matt, good one, hope to see you out on the track sometime.


Thanks Steve, hopefully in a few months time! When are the b series on at Morgan Park?

Matt

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 8:10 pm 
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Matt, next B series round is next weekend, unfortunately I won't be there, I'm sitting out the rest of year after my "mishap" at Bathurst. Will do Noosa HillClimb in November.
Next B series dates are 2 & 3 August, 27 & 28 September.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 8:45 pm 
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2nd and 3rd August is the weekend I'm aiming for! Will also hopefully be at the hill in Noosa in November!

Look forward to catching up then!

I heard about Ken's incident at Bathurst, what happened to you?

M

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