The port is on the carby, it looks like any other HS2 dizzy vac port from outside. I can't recall which carb it was on though. RH, I think...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had a car recently that had the same problem, constant vaccum on the drivers side carb from the dissy vac advance port and had caused the vac adv on the dissy was stuck at full adv, replaced the vac adv on dissy, the plate etc in dissy returned to norm position when old vac adv removed, found that the passenger side vac adv was blocked off but not pulling vac at idle but would when throttle increased so hose went on there, blocked port with constant vacc and engine stalled.
Set everything back to my starting point for tuning carbs got it running and did all the adjustments, 1 happy car and 1 happy owner.
The other thing that could be done is to block the port off on the carb and dissy and make sure the plate in the dissy is in its non-adv state, then adjust the carbs.
Then get Joe to swap tiny for a life time public transport ticket!! Please!!

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Joe , I'm not going to try and educate you about the carbs , there's enough good advice for you in here already that will explain that too you . What I will add though is get Tiny's head fixed before chopping and changing carbs . From memory you are still driving with 2 broken valve springs (they are still broken aren't they ?) which will be limiting the potential performance of Tiny . If two are broken then there's also the chance of the others being badly squashed and not performing as well as they should .

Do it once and do it right .

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Broken valves springs and broken head studs.... Sounds like his motor is broken....

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

valves springs have been replaced with double valve springs.

the carbys were bought from a member here and were originally a matched set. im not gonna try and explain why they arnt now.

i understand fully what everyone is saying that is why ive changed it back to the single. oviously tthe twins just werent gonna work for me there for i went back to the way the car was bought. ive given up on trying to make those stupid things work and the head work will be done soon as i can recover from the money spent.

im not underminding the experts at this, im not saying anyone is wrong or right. im basicly telling you guys what ive been told. its ovious here that some people do read or remember things properly cause ive explained to many times why its gone to 2 different mechanics.

the point of this section of the forum is to ask for help and to share mini knowledge and experience, i have ask i got my answers and now i posted up what i have discovered about my mini only to now be put into a corner on why am i asking about the same problem again on the forum... when i havent. read the first post of this thread.

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

I'll give you $50 for the carbs

Julio Wannabe.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

My apologies then Joe , last I saw you were talking about getting them fixed when you had the money .

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Why run double valve springs? By the sound of things it is not revving high enough to need them. (on a stock engine they will usually give less power by increasing friction)

well according to mini spares who put in the 730 or 731 cam, it was modified. dont know how exactly but they said they installed a 730/731 cam in the engine when it was bored to 1132 or 1152 and it was no wonder the valve springs collapesed. they said at the time the motor of was built and bored that cam was a fair good mild cam going around.

no probs sports i actually should of posted that they were replaced. which is now why im broke for the time being. the step is the head and fixing that stud though

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

I personaly helped with stripping and cleaning those carbies at "the first place", and if they were a matched pair I'll eat my hat , as for the fact that they were running fine on a car before I find hard to believe as it took me nearly an hour just to scrape the mud out of the fuel bowls,(the jet at the bottom of the bowl on one of the carbies was completely covered!!!). That bloke at "the first place" also replaced one of the piston and chambers when he realised that one was cooper s and the other 850 , the carbies were in bad shape and "that bloke" informed the customer of that, and that he would do the best he could with them, I think he did a great job with them considering what he started with....I hope this puts to bed any ideas that a "matched pair" of carbies arrived and a "non matched" pair left.

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May the fork be with you.

The plot thickens!!

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

now that i didnt know. the non matched part. i know they changed one carby cause it was stuffed or something. gerg dont get me wrong. the "first place" did the job they were asked for however the was not fixed. it was still running like crap after being sorted out 3 times. the day u drove out with it ill admit it drove really well but surely u can remember when i came back in the arvo saying that the bonnect kept opening and the wouldnt run without the choke?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Yea, I do remember that Joe, but like you said it was running fine when it left !?, and I can tell you they never touched the bonnet.

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May the fork be with you.

yeah i know they never touched the bonnet they told me about that. it was easily fixed up.

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower