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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 6:09 am 
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Mick,
These forged pistons were put on the S rods back around ~1980, in 1984 I pulled it apart, the motor then sat around in bits under my boss's house for 15 years or so, until I bored an 1100S block and put it back together.
This problem with Mahles was pretty common apparently- Steve (justminis) sent me some old spare ones down from Cairns, a couple had suffered this same scenario.

The new Hypatecs are much more solid... :P

:?: Should I `engine dyno' this new 1360 motor now or run it in properly, first? :roll:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Lillee
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:53 am 
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Run in then Dyno. You can get it to at least 80% correct by ear anyway Kev :lol:

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13secmini
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:59 am 
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kev run it on the engine dyno and then run it on the chassis dyno then you can see how much power is lost thru the box :D

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 12:29 pm 
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13secmini wrote:
kev run it on the engine dyno and then run it on the chassis dyno then you can see how much power is lost thru the box:D

Not really, the calibration of both dynos is different, then there are friction lossed thru the tyres...

Engine dyno is more accurate- it's just torque (which can be measured accurately) x rpm /5250 or something. :wink:

I think I'm better running it in first, then take it to Castle Hill to dyno & get the mixture checked.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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9YaTaH
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 4:19 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
13secmini wrote:
kev run it on the engine dyno and then run it on the chassis dyno then you can see how much power is lost thru the box:D

Not really, the calibration of both dynos is different, then there are friction lossed thru the tyres...

Engine dyno is more accurate- it's just torque (which can be measured accurately) x rpm /5250 or something. :wink:

I think I'm better running it in first, then take it to Castle Hill to dyno & get the mixture checked.


Run in and get it all settled down before showing it to the chassis dyno....my 5c worth.

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:11 pm 
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Finally, it's ready to drop in. Cranked it over on the floor with the plugs out, just to make sure its newly drilled arteries are OK and I've actually got oil pressure.. YES! :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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13secmini
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:13 pm 
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nice one kev,, when is the drop in date?? i may come around and hold your beer for you while you work :) also need to grab the drum and studs of you too...

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Last edited by 13secmini on Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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kazjim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:14 pm 
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Tell you what Kev, if that cheap-ass auto block makes serious power then you have just thrown down the "Bang for Buck" gauntlets.... :twisted:

Whats your guesstimate.... 100@wheels ? More ?
it'll be a bit of a torquer though..... :roll:

Now all you need is a little blower, a decompression plate and your head read !

Later
J

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:24 pm 
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James,
It's going in with the Dellorto 45, Redline 3005 manifold and Maniflow LCB.
Diff is now a 3.647.

Rego is due, and I think they might like an air filter on it.. also I'm having second thoughts about hacking the body up and moving the speedo into the cabin..
We'll see how it goes.. I can always just bolt the GR manifold on without filters, for Wakefield Pk..

Also, I've acquired a Brownrigg LCB with long primaries and bigass pipes. Off a certain bright green Nb race car. I just need to get a collector for it, and a 2" pipe, and a turbo muffler.. and... and.. :lol:

There's a 1430 stroker coming too, if this one ain't quick enough.. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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kazjim
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:28 pm 
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Would the Large Bore LCB Manifold Collector do ?

Send me a measurment and I'll see if the collector here does the trick....
Swap you one LCB for another if it does.....

Sound fun ?
J

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 7:33 pm 
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Not sure what this LCB is like yet. It's been wrapped- might be rotten when I unwrap it all. If so I'll bin it. Only cost me $50..
Wrap is OK on the track but rots them out, they get tooo hot. :cry:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Lillee
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:14 pm 
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LCB? more like sydney water main pipes! Their huge!

100 at the wheels minimum James! your going to a get a run for you money with this one! I help build the thing so it's got the Chong Special Vehicles approved sticker on it too! Good for at least 20bhp :wink: :lol:

When's the drop in date kev??

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:16 pm 
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Tomorrow morning, maybe.. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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gafmo
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:24 pm 
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Hay Kev I may have a Turbo Muffler :shock: not sure on the entre and exhurt..You wana Look :shock:

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 9:27 pm 
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gafmo wrote:
Hay Kev I may have a Turbo Muffler :shock: not sure on the entre and exhurt..You wana Look :shock:

Wait until I suss this LCB out. Maybe it's NFG... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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