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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:27 pm 
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Simon, after it is all stripped work out what you need to replace and let me know. I can help with most of the bits but not too sure of a spare rod. I will check out what I have. The only other thing is I have the Mk2 S eng/box that I just picked up.
Send me a PM

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 2:31 pm 
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simon k wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
you have a bent conrod in No.2. Check the piston where the pin fits to see if there are any surface cracks
I would get them all checked for straightness and crack tested, otherwise if you re-build it one may decide to part company. Also get the crank checked aswell.
Looks like it is going to take a little time to re-build now, so upgrade.


bent rod - bum... thanks David, will do

I've been slack on sending an invoice to one of my clients - so there's a little bit I can 'divert', not much though

If the pin has moved out like that, the rod's interference fit is lost. Bin it and get another rod..

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:42 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
simon k wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
you have a bent conrod in No.2. Check the piston where the pin fits to see if there are any surface cracks
I would get them all checked for straightness and crack tested, otherwise if you re-build it one may decide to part company. Also get the crank checked aswell.
Looks like it is going to take a little time to re-build now, so upgrade.


bent rod - bum... thanks David, will do

I've been slack on sending an invoice to one of my clients - so there's a little bit I can 'divert', not much though

If the pin has moved out like that, the rod's interference fit is lost. Bin it and get another rod..


OK - I'm thinking maybe I'll ask GR about a set of pistons, he might be willing to fit some pistons to a new 2nd hand set of rods and post them down for my machine shop to do the bore.... though that said, my machine shop can't do offset boring, maybe I should send the block up to GR

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Pandora's Gearbox :(

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:47 pm 
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Simon, when you go to put the box back together ,it may be a good idea to fit one of these. It stops the oil from hitting the crank / conrods and causing all sorts of little impact stresses that eventually cause BIG BANG!!!!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:00 pm 
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Windage tray!

very simple install, always wanted a photo of one up close - thanks David :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:24 pm 
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If you like PM me your address and I will post you one. I have one spare left over from the boxes I am doing.
You just drill/tap the holes in case and screw in the screws. I use TEC screws with impact driver. They never come loose.
Then just shape the alloy to suit.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:45 am 
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GR says they are good- as they keep the busted engine bits out of the gearbox. :lol:
But, they can restrict oil drainage back down. Maybe add a few slots?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:42 am 
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:shock: :shock: :shock: WOW , lucky you pulled it apart when you did and you are still able to use the block . Good luck with the rebuild .

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:49 am 
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http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/windage.pdf

When I looked through some of the build ups in old threads, I was
surprised that no one seems to fit a windage tray given all that oil
spun around and frothed up in the gearbox and the revs some of
you blokes do. :D :D


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:39 am 
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david rosenthal wrote:
It stops the oil from hitting the crank / conrods and causing all sorts of little impact stresses that eventually cause BIG BANG!!!!!!



Is that true? - not doubting your wisdom David - just in my limited knowledge I never thought of oil causeing impact stress :? I just assumed the windage tray was to keep the oil down in the gears where it can do its job rather than dripping off the walls and ceiling so to speak

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:06 pm 
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F= M.A. At 6000 rpm the crank is rotating at 6000div by 60 =100 revs/sec.
So any small amount of oil that it hits at that speed will cause a small impact force. Do it enough times and something will bend or break.
Its like a bullet fired from a gun. the weight is small but the velocity is high and the impact :shock: :shock: that's why people wedge a crank to reduce the impact force of hitting the oil.
The other advantage is that they keep the oil concerntrated around the gears instead of flinging it off.
I have made them where the tray has a dish shape in it so the oil dumps directly over the oil pick-up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:18 pm 
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The tek screws (If that's what they are...) David, do you need to loctite them in or will they have enough grip to take to the ally by themselves?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:58 pm 
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The screws are pre-drilled into the gearbox web. Once they are in they never let go.
You could also just dril/tap a 5 or 6 mm thread and loctite the bolts.
This plate is just a roughy type I fit, but the best ones [making a couple for a t/c eng] I panel beat the plate to fit neatly all around the case. Then where the cut out for the oil pick up is ,I open that up and fit a dished section with a mesh bottom so the oil dumps directly onto the p/p pick-up.
With this type then NO eng bits can fall into box

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:44 pm 
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Thanks David, these kind of items always seem so exotic and top end. As always you bring them into the realm of simple and achievable.

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