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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:17 pm 
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MinisPlus
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:12 pm
Posts: 172
Location: Mooroolbark, Vic
Well I'm convinced enough now to try KMX with a dose of molybond.
All I've got to do is put the car back together!

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How can it be rusty when it's covered in so much oil?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:34 pm 
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Mods rock!
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Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 5079
GT mowog wrote:
GR wrote:

GT mowog,
You must know alot more than the multinational car manufacturers, cam developers around the world, as they all appear to be having trouble with flat tappet camshafts in regards to wear, because of the zinc and sulphur/phosphate has been taken out of the oil.

GT mowog wrote
Quote:
It does very little for lubrication of metal to metal components.



GT mowog, I would also like to ask you a question, have you ever done a test with molybond in both road and race cars, as I have? I recommend this product because of the years of testing I have found it to be a good thing. But, each to there own. I have many products on the shelf here, will gladly let anybody have from manufacturers who claim they have developed the best friction modifiers and then claim outlandish results in HP increase, Engine life and economy. But from my results from testing these products they have all been failures, AND, in some cases they lost HP.
If the molybond is not as good as I am saying, then why are all CV joints lubricated with a molygrease, which is a metal on metal contact?

Happy to have a chat about it, give me a call or come on down for a cuppa.
Matt, better send a box of wagon wheels :wink:

Graham Russell


Be careful what you ask here GR......... :wink:

(And I did once come down for a cuppa...)


Because it might come back to bite you...

I do like to learn and learn from others. I do not regard myself as an expert and am always learning.

I read your links and they are not related to what I posted here

I can only suggest GR that you go back and read what I posted here and get your facts correct. I did not refer to the products that you have a seem to say that I did.

FYI, I do not 'know more that a lot of multinational car manufacturer's' but I do have access to much of their research and data, that is carried out to a standard and also data and tests that far exceed that done by car manufacturers. I have also done a substaintial amount of contract testing for some manufacturers and engine companies (among others) to world recognised standards.

I post here not for profit but to assist others.

It is nice to see that there are some stable things in this world like your abrasive attitude.


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 Post subject: re: moly bond
PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:03 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:50 pm
Posts: 127
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Just to switch gears in the topic a little - seems like there's really 3 parts to this:

1. What oil to use? (Running in vs road vs race)
2. Should we add molybond? (Molybdenum decreases wear and hardens the surface)
3. Should we add ZDDP? It has all but been taken out of most oils, so it's beneficial to add it. It helps reduce cam/tappet wear and helps the synchros(?)

AFAIK friction modifiers are bad in the mini, which is why we have to be sensible about what we put into our beloved cars, most modern oils use 'em.

There's only a few ways to test your choices or theories.
a) Road test - gear changes, engine temperatures, sound and/or responsiveness.
b) On the dyno.
c) When you rip out your engine/gearbox compare the wear to normal.

Obviously, an engine dyno is as close as you can get to it being an exact science.
These things may help newer or older engines more or less.

For the average road mini, i'd just use a good oil with regular changes, don't rev it when cold and keep the oil pressure up. Oh, and remove your filter bypass!!

Ultimately, you would like more performance with no sacrifice in longevity.


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