drmini in aust wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
It makes a very big difference to the temp under the bonnet. I never did any temp readings on the HQ but it was a huge noticeable drop in temp.
You could hold on to the extractors after a race.
With the HQ the starter and alternator are buried under the extractors and I was forever changing starters, alternators and wiring due to excessive heat. After wrapping I didn't have any problems.
There was an improvement in lap times after fitting the wrap. It was only small but it was an improvement. I doubt that the gain was from gasflow, it was more likely from being able to run more advance without pinging.
Well Morris, I totally understand that you are talking about benefits on the HQ's...
But if the wraping worked that well that you could grab the extractors after a race, then it will do the job that I (for one) want it to,, and
thats stop the fuel in the float bowls coming to a boil when your in one of those situations where the car ends up idling to long at a stand still.Thanks
Isn't that what a heat shield is for? I hope you are using one, with SUs...
I've never had this problem on the wife's car (twin HS4s and S/S heat shields).
Yeah your right, thats what the heat shields are for,, but I was at the drags with it for the first time and I didn't realise how the cues worked. They have four cues and they release 2 at a time. I pulled up at the END of a cue that wasn't due for release for about another 30min, and not knowing how long it would take to be released/having 40 other things on my mind... I ended up leaving the car idle for about 35min total with
no air moving around them.
The heat shields work well, but once they have become saturated with heat they may as well not be there. That engine normally runs at a pretty steady 75-80 degrees C, but just from idleing without air... well... the
fuel bowls were almost glowing red!!
Needless to say it ended up only running on about 2 and a half cylinders
My own stupid fault for letting it idle so long
