Am not an expert on this but, imagine if he'd hit a BMW, SAAB or Merc. Parts, let alone replacement costs would be astronomical.

With no 3rd Party Property insurance, he'd be forced to go bankrupt. He'd lose his house (okay if he rents) and everything. Only idoits dont have 3rd party property.

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1966 Morris Mini Deluxe
.... 4 bicycles and 3 screaming kids.

I had to explain to someone what 3rd party property insurance was, and then the difference between comprehensive insurance.

They thought their rego and greenslip covered them for everything.

They still don't think they will bother with it.

This guy will probably go to court, cry poor and end up paying 666's insurers $20 a week for the rest of his life, or some such crap.

This is why comprehensive insurance is so important (unless it's a dunger you don't care about.) At least you get your car fixed and it's up to the insurance company to chase the other guy.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I only have 3rd party, and the mini isn't a dunger I don't care about...

It's all relative to your situation. To comprehensively insure my mini, I'm looking at about $1350 a year (because of age and gender). A claim also costs $850 (because of age and gender).

For a $3000 car, I'd have to write it off in the first year for this price to be worthwhile. If I were comprehensively insured for three years, I'd have paid over $4000 to cover a $3000 car.

So, two years on - no crash and no regrets.

I feel your pain. Insurance when you are you are young is always expensive. I remember being horrified at shelling out $1143 to insure a Gemini for $4000 when I was 18. But at least it allowed me to build up some no-claims. After five years the premium was down to a much more reasonable $600ish a year.

My personal cutoff is $4000. Anything worth less than that (to me) and I only have third party property on it.

I probably should not have referred to dungers, as it's not really fair. Not all cheap cars are dungers.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

If it's any consolation to you, my Mini is insured by Shannons (one of three cars with them) and it's $150 a year full comprehensive.

When I first got comprehensive insurance at the age of 19 for my AW11 MR2, it was $1600 (and there were quotes of up to $6000).

Hang in there, and as soon as you can afford it get full comprehensive. It's definitely worth it. I've been hit three times (not at fault) and it's so much easier to sort out.

How old are you? Have you tried Shannons?

If the car is not worth the comprehensive premiums demanded; suggest 3rd Party Property Insurance is a must. Not to protect your car, but to protect yourself against the accident costs brought on you by some else.

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1966 Morris Mini Deluxe
.... 4 bicycles and 3 screaming kids.

there was an ad years ago with a guy in a 180B, a spider popped down from his sunvisor and scared him, he crashed into the back of a moving truck that then rolled down a hill and wrecked a bunch of cars etc. etc.

the tag line was "if your car isn't worth insuring, at least insure for the damage it could cause"

I was 19 when I was first looking for insurance, but I turned 21 earlier this year - I believe that will makes thing cheaper in the future. Yes, I did have a look at shannons, and for comprehensive it was still very expensive ($1000+)



Yes, I wouldn't drive a car without 3rd party property (I've always just referred to 3rd party property as 3rd party, since you automatically get personal with your rego). I agree with what some others said previously, it should be a legal requirement.

no news yet, still waiting for the under writer to come and have a look at the car, but the crash shop thinks it might be total loss,

so its not looking good :/

Remember the 1/4 cut option using an imported 1/2 cut from your local SA mini imports place. No un-stitching, no new panels to buy. Just drop out the subby and remove dash, carpet, pedal box, rack, windscreen and master cylinders. If the insurance co and panel shop only look at the new panels and straightening those that can't be replaced, it will be very expensive.

Not ideal I agree but it could be the difference between viable repair and economic write-off. If cut in the rights places, there shouldn't be any parts that can't be welded sufficiently from the outside. That is no multi-layered areas.