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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:40 pm 
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Hanra wrote:
Sure as SH*T its friggin open circut....


Sorry, am I having another dense moment? The high tension current goes from the carbon brush in the cap to the centre of the rotor button, which sends it to each terminal on the cap pin turn.

How is there an open circuit between the centre and tip of a single-piece brass electrode?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:00 pm 
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Circus_Maximus wrote:
Hairline crack would not prevent a spark, after all the spark jumps from the end of the rotor to the spark plug lead terminal. My suspicion is a short circuit inside the plastic moulding shorting out to the spring tensioner that keeps it located on the distributor post, and hence diverting all sparks to ground through the distributor shaft.



I would not expect it to stop HT either. It may become conductive of my dump gets in there.

sgc wrote:
Hanra wrote:
Sure as SH*T its friggin open circut....


Sorry, am I having another dense moment? The high tension current goes from the carbon brush in the cap to the centre of the rotor button, which sends it to each terminal on the cap pin turn.

How is there an open circuit between the centre and tip of a single-piece brass electrode?



Yes your right. And I don't know. The two buttons are identical. One old n sh*tty and works like a charm, one is brand new and does not work..... The carbon contact on the cap is in perfect condition sitting proud out from the cap. Perhaps the plastic is somewhat conductive and grounding to the shaft... But as I said, it's new and done approx 20klms. I've not lubed the dizzy shaft with oil just a bit of HTB grease.

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Last edited by Hanra on Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:29 am 
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"It may become conductive of my dump gets in there."

If it was not before it sure would after ... :lol:

Electrician's megger (insulation breakdown tester) would give the story. Probably plastic contaminated with too much baby food melamine additive ....

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:54 am 
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Yeah Ill try and megga it today. Id say thats the issue.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:56 am 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I will guess it shorts between the brass and the center post on the distributor. The spark is fully capable of jumping a 0.025" gap in the spark plug under pressure as well as the gap between the rotor arm and the cap, so it will easily skip a hairline fracture.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:56 am 
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Mick wrote:
I will guess it shorts between the brass and the center post on the distributor. The spark is fully capable of jumping a 0.025" gap in the spark plug under pressure as well as the gap between the rotor arm and the cap, so it will easily skip a hairline fracture.


But the thing is, Hanra's tested the rotor electrode and has an OPEN CIRCUIT between centre and tip. How is that possible!? :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:43 pm 
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Because it has a solid brass bit on top, there is continuity there. :lol:
The spark though will go to ground rather than fire a plug, in this case it's arcing thru the plastic rotor to the steel spindle.
Can't measure a short there with a dvm but a megger (HV test) should show it.
Note we are talking around 30-40KV here... not 12V.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:17 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
The spark though will go to ground rather than fire a plug, in this case it's arcing thru the plastic rotor to the steel spindle.


Yeah, I get that, it's just the bit about not having continuity across a solid brass conductor that is befuddling :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:08 pm 
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sgc wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
The spark though will go to ground rather than fire a plug, in this case it's arcing thru the plastic rotor to the steel spindle.


Yeah, I get that, it's just the bit about not having continuity across a solid brass conductor that is befuddling :lol:


Perhaps in my p*ssed off state I have not explained myself entirely.

Now that I am composed....

When I was staticly setting up the timing I measured from No 1 plug lead to the HT lead, confirming the rotor button was indeed contacting No 1 contact on the dizzy cap. It was O/C.

Working late, in the dark covered in sweat and rushing things, in my haste I did not think to take a close up look at the rotor button with a torch as I assumed being brand new it was ok....

Now that Ive had chance at work to inspect it. No there isnt a fracture, yes the majority of it is a dead short. However as the video shows, it is intermittently O/C or high ohms between the centre section where the dizzy cap contacts, and the outter contact. It megga'd fine from the contact to the plastic, no breakdown in insulation up to 1000v.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:50 pm 
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Hanra, the rotor button does NOT touch the 4 contacts around the cap. There is an air gap, the spark jumps it to get to the plug lead.
So of course if you measure it for resistance, it is O/C.

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