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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 5:13 am 
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848cc
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Lol at my thread...
All i really wanted to know was if i brought a 1100 mini instead of buying a mini with a 1275, how much was i going to need to spend to get the 1100 to go like the 1275... So basicly i drive the 1100 to the shop.. Leave it and when its done, drive away a 1100+ that goes like a 1275...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 5:56 am 
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1098cc
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Location: queensland
Scoop wrote:
low n blown wrote:
So now back to the original question of mr or ms "iamstib" to make your 1100 go like a 1275 you are going to have to modify the 1100. Your 1275 is ........... already a 1275. It is going to take more than the difference in purchase price to modify your 1100 to the point that it will have similar power to your standard 1275, and all you have is still an 1100 engine, so it remains a false economy.

Purchase price of 1275? $1200
Price of 1100? $100
Your saying with that difference you couldnt buy the components to achieve the standard hp of a 1275?
GR has already given the piston price, $375
Cam grind, $150
Carby on manifold, $500
With what GR has shown already, it shows a 50% gain over a standard 1275. You need a new economist.


Think you may have forgotten you need a head to bolt that carby to. You also have a greater expense in machining work to complete, as already stated by Graham in a previous thread. Head work is not cheap. Since pistons for your 1275 can be bought from Minispares for under $200 with the basics you have mentioned you are already up to $825. Add in another $125 to regraph the dizzy to suit. That price difference is pretty small $250 to get the head done, machine work completed, and have it tuned. Or don't you bother to have it tuned properly? Perhaps this is one of the reasons for engines going pop.

My maths is pretty good thanks. You need to include all the expenses to make a balance sheet work.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


Last edited by low n blown on Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:00 am 
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1098cc
1098cc

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Location: queensland
iamstib wrote:
Lol at my thread...
All i really wanted to know was if i brought a 1100 mini instead of buying a mini with a 1275, how much was i going to need to spend to get the 1100 to go like the 1275... So basicly i drive the 1100 to the shop.. Leave it and when its done, drive away a 1100+ that goes like a 1275...


So do you have an answer for your question?

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:57 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 2:07 pm
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Location: Lemmings, everywhere.
:roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:11 am 
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1275cc
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I'm collecting parts at the moment for an 1100 engine build. I'm not chasing the kind of figures GR is getting, but I'd be happy with 60-65hp at the crank, which isn't too much of a stretch seeing they are rated at 50hp standard. That'd be a huge improvement over my current 998 too.

And like most people, I'd love to be able to lay $3-5k on the table for a nice 1275. Unfortunately being 25 and recently signing up for 30 years of debt makes it hard to find that kind of money!

Remember, stock 1275 engines ranged from 55hp in the late model ones all the way up to 75hp in the Cooper S...

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:20 am 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane
Ok,
I have Built Absolutely Standard 1275 engines, with the only modification being an 1 3/4 su, that have made 55 HP at the wheels. The key here being ABSOLUTELY STANDARD. Now lets not start an argument about this figure shall we Children!!!

So What Greg Really wants to know is the answer to two very simple Questions.

1. What is the Cost to rebuild a Standard 1275cc Mini Engine with no modifications? (cary out the door price)
2. What is the Cost to rebuild a Modified Small Bore Engine that will Deliver 55 HP at the wheels? (cary out the door price)

So if someone could answer this question this argument could be put to bed.
GR????
Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:34 am 
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For those with a smallbore who don't have a 1275 to `carry out the door' they would need to buy one first. Better add $$$ for that.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:39 am 
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1360cc
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low n blown wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
Ummmm why do you say that? A nitride 1275 crank may have been thrashed to within an inch of its life!

Blocks are mostly the same...and by boring out the 1100 you are making it a little more square which is a good thing...everything is 40 years old so it all needs to be tiddlyed up no matter what bore and stroke...etc


Anything from any sized engine "may" have been thrashed. This is irrelevant, lets not make assumptions but base the advise we give someone on facts.

There is more to an engine than a block.


My point exactly...the 1275 is held up as the ultimate...but it is an engine just like any other.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:43 am 
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1360cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
For those with a smallbore who don't have a 1275 to `carry out the door' they would need to buy one first. Better add $$$ for that.


"they would need to buy or find one first" :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:45 am 
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1360cc
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low n blown wrote:
iamstib wrote:
Lol at my thread...
All i really wanted to know was if i brought a 1100 mini instead of buying a mini with a 1275, how much was i going to need to spend to get the 1100 to go like the 1275... So basicly i drive the 1100 to the shop.. Leave it and when its done, drive away a 1100+ that goes like a 1275...


So do you have an answer for your question?


Guys...feel the lerve :!: :lol: :arrow:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 12:14 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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Location: North Rocks
OK
Here we go again,to match what you have I would only go +.080/.100 over size with an 1100.
If i'm doing the work and supplying the bits I will drop some of the prices a little.

Bore $150
Pistons $350
Cam $130 $150 with freight
Deck block $50
Head reco $250 +parts
Bigger inlet valves $80
Cam bearings fitted $65

Total $1075
Graham Russell
PS if you would like me to build this motor you can come and see it on the dyno

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 12:18 pm 
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Oh dear, worry, worry...

Joined: Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:31 pm
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850 man
I see you rolling your eyes maybe you would like to show some of the prices you charge at link for doing work I see they are quite high :shock:
Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:02 pm 
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1360cc
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A gentle reminder to all to discuss and debate topics openly and fairly. Stick to the subject matter and don't criticise others for having a different opinion, even if you believe they are wrong. The existence of Ausmini as the premier Australian Mini forum relies on the both the contribution and the behaviour of its members.

Somewhere out there Santa (Mick) and his elves (the mods) are watching to see who's naughty and who's nice. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:08 pm 
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998cc
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I have a 1100 in my mini with lcb extractors and a head same as. 295 and a 1.5. Carbie and. Re13 cam and it goes really really well enough power to do what I want take over who I want :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:37 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Sandy Bay, Tasmania
i got a mini wrote:
I have a 1100 in my mini with lcb extractors and a head same as. 295 and a 1.5. Carbie and. Re13 cam and it goes really really well enough power to do what I want take over who I want :)


Except a 1275 with the same amount of work put into it :)

(sorry, just trolling)

I'm amazed threads like this still get so heated. Everybody knows that a 1275 is going to be faster than a 1098. The question is pretty clear:

Quote:
All i really wanted to know was if i brought a 1100 mini instead of buying a mini with a 1275, how much was i going to need to spend to get the 1100 to go like the 1275... So basicly i drive the 1100 to the shop.. Leave it and when its done, drive away a 1100+ that goes like a 1275...


GR has given his price - $1075. Before in the thread someone was offering a 1275 that probably needs a rebuild for $1200 - probably a fair price. In this case, building up a hot 1098 is the way to go.

What if you want to make 130hp? That's a lot more work to do on the 1098. If you're after that, you'd be better off paying the extra $1000 up front for the 1275, rather than trying to build the 1098 up further. What about 150hp? I would be astounded if anybody can even build a driveable N/A road 1098 with 150hp, but very possible with a 1275.

Horses for courses, as they say. Graham has shown that you can build an affordable, driveable engine without having a 1275. And that would be my personal recommendation as well.


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