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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:45 pm 
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1275cc
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mini68 if your clutch and brakes are working fine leave the cylinders alone, JAM has the problem its his clutch that is not releasing so he will be the one swapping cylinders

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 1:26 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Armidale, NSW
jill200sx wrote:
"if its not broke, dont fix" if they working now Id leave em alone ;)

JAM, what do we ask for when ordering this brake master cylinder from a brake place? What brand do we ask for? or will it be the only brake master cylinder listed for a Mini? Plastic or steel the only 2 options?

Im gonna go down to local brake bloke today.


I think my plastic one is PBR :D Lockheed were the other brake brand minis used but I think they are defunct now :(

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 2:46 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Phillip Island VIC
Quote:
mini68 if your clutch and brakes are working fine leave the cylinders alone, JAM has the problem its his clutch that is not releasing so he will be the one swapping cylinders


Quote:
"if its not broke, dont fix" if they working now Id leave em alone


Thanks for the input guys. Think I will leave them alone and just wait and see how JAM ends up first.

Quote:
I think my plastic one is PBR Lockheed were the other brake brand minis used but I think they are defunct now


Mine are the new plastic type and are made by Lockheed. Same as the ones in the MInispares UK catalogue I think. I got them at Karcraft.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2005 8:58 am 
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1360cc
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Karcraft told me that Lockheed make both types (plastic and metal), but the metal cost more because they make less :mrgreen:

BTW....I am NOT swapping my master cylinders over.....my problem lies elsewhere..... :?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:15 pm 
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848cc
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Quote:
BTW....I am NOT swapping my master cylinders over.....my problem lies elsewhere.....


I did a fare bit of looking through photos on this site yesterday and all seem to be intalled the same as yours JAM. I think yours are correct and mine are backwards.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:22 pm 
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1360cc
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maybe so, but if yours are working fine, leave them!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 29, 2005 12:43 pm 
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848cc
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Yeah but there is the possibility that the brakes will get stuck on or are partly on all the time besides I can't leave it alone. If if its not right then its gotta be fixed weather its working or not.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 2:36 pm 
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998cc
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Anton - did you get this problem sorted? figured I'd ask since JAM has moved in to 'mission accomplished' mode.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 3:08 pm 
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1360cc
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neither yes or no Darren......

I don't think my issues are gearbox....definitely clutch.

If I can spell out my issues in basic terms, it's like this:

Most of the time I have no problem with clutch / gear operation. I can change down from 3rd to 2nd with no probs 90% of the time. When it won't go into 2nd, or 1st for that matter, it feels like the clutch is disengaging, then the hydraulic backs off, even though my foot doesn't back off the pedal, and it either won't go into 2nd while driving, or crunches into 1st when stationary or coming to a stop.

If I am idling, in gear with foot on clutch, it feels like the clutch is slowly being let out, but I have my foot firmly on the pedal. :?

As stated before, master, slave and hose in between are NEW. Slave pushrod is now new also.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 3:14 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane, QLD
:? <--- i think this emoticon def sums it up.

my clutch gave me all sorts of hassle for a while there. the car ended up heading out to Tenterfield and Ron Williams fixed it where others couldn't. that was after two lots of cylinders, and various other hacks and aborted attempts.

i guess start at the pedal and work backwards from there? what's the current plan of attack? would like to hear how you go along the trail, as that could well happen to me at some stage in the future.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:47 pm 
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848cc
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thats just how mine is. i just double clutch. and i have just had the box rebuild and put new clutch parts in. except master cylinder, clutch line and hose but i am doing them this weekend. on the change down to second if u don't get full clutch operation it will crunch. it has to be perfect.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:32 am 
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JAM have you had someone sit with their foot on the clutch while you watch what the clutch arm is doing ie is it moving back? Have you readjusted the clutch return stop bolt? I had to do that several times when I first got mine going. Forgive me if this has already been covered elsewhere.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:10 am 
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1360cc
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Mini68 wrote:
JAM have you had someone sit with their foot on the clutch while you watch what the clutch arm is doing ie is it moving back?.


I haven't done this, but have been wanting to for weeks. It's just that when someone is over to help me, I forget to ask..... :?

I am very keen to see what happenes in this situation. I feel the clutch arm will retract by itself, after depressing the pedal.

I actually read an article last night about the clutch issue I have, and this article pointed to wear on the ball at the end of the clutch arm as being the likely cause. Interesting......because I haven't renewed the clutch arm, it's the same one from JAM Mk1 (before resto). I might see if I can get a new one. Got to try everything!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:14 am 
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Postally Verbose
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Location: Richmond.... NSW
fingers are crossed for you Anton. :wink: lets hope it is that..


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:42 am 
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probably wont be... :(


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