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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Location: Outta Ipswich
Clutch-monkey wrote:
i managed to get around buying new flares, by fitting the 10x6's under the existing ones!

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well maybe not..unfortunately i don't think it's actually a viable solution.. :lol: :lol:
Image

.. looks like a fat bloke jumped on it to boot!

:lol: i saw i mighty boy recently with that sort of camber front and rear. It looked absolutely stupid on the road. Each to their own.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:59 pm
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Location: Bris / Syd
Clutch-monkey wrote:
i managed to get around buying new flares, by fitting the 10x6's under the existing ones!

Image


well maybe not..unfortunately i don't think it's actually a viable solution.. :lol: :lol:
Image

.. looks like a fat bloke jumped on it to boot!


Put some trim on the innocent flares mine work with 10 x 6" revos a few rivets will do it.


Put ebay alloy rad in ... Pinhole leak :roll:

Tidied up engine bay wiring moving relays & fuses around . Looking clean.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2012 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:12 am
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Location: Quakers Hill Sydney
bought a new project to be daily!
Morris 1100!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:51 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2010 4:20 pm
Posts: 222
Location: Near Penrith NSW
Sent my mini to the panel shop


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 2:09 pm
Posts: 805
Location: Doncaster, Vic
Pulled the head off my motor with carter_gt
Interesting things done by the previous owner

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:18 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
brett wrote:
Let us know how you go Dr! I have so far fitted 2 of the bloody things

Driven it 10km or so, and it hasn't marked its spot, yet... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2004 1:21 pm
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Location: Western Queensland
Thanks, I am just going to put u with mine for a while... see if it seals itself :roll: its only a drop. so nothing to worry about, no different than what it was doing before I pulled the motor out.. Just annoying I suppose...........

Fitted a horn button, Horn now works, Added lots more sound proofing, Mrs said it was a bit loud.. Super quiet at the rear, but still a bit loud up front. Any ideas?? its running KN filters. Contemplating fitting an original Cooper S Filter box, but not sure if they will fit on a twin HS4 1.5" Carbs....

I must be getting old, 5 speed box, and lots of sound proofing

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:51 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Back in the late 60s I persuaded a Cooper S airbox to fit on a pair of HS4s, I think I modified some HS2 trumpets to fit the carbs.
No idea how well it flowed, I sold the car soon after.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:56 pm 
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Location: Quakers Hill Sydney
Cut out a bunch of rust and welded in some new metal on the 1100 project!

Progress is good!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:02 pm
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Location: Woody Point 4019
Lifted the R1 engine off it's pallet and put it somewhere safe. Put castors on the pallet and stuck it under the spare shell, now it is mobile again. Missus is happy as the pallet is gone, the engine and the spare shell is moved out of the way.

Win/win really.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:25 pm 
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brett wrote:
Thanks, I am just going to put u with mine for a while... see if it seals itself :roll: its only a drop. so nothing to worry about, no different than what it was doing before I pulled the motor out.. Just annoying I suppose...........

Fitted a horn button, Horn now works, Added lots more sound proofing, Mrs said it was a bit loud.. Super quiet at the rear, but still a bit loud up front. Any ideas?? its running KN filters. Contemplating fitting an original Cooper S Filter box, but not sure if they will fit on a twin HS4 1.5" Carbs....

I must be getting old, 5 speed box, and lots of sound proofing

The BMC Australia rally team modified two metal donut filter cases to fit on twin HS4's.
It looked odd but probably worked. You would need the elbows off the HS4 with the oval hole where they go into the filter case.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
drmini in aust wrote:
Pulled the fresh 500 mile old clutch oil seal (GACO comp one) out of the 1360 and replaced it with a Payen one.
I'm damned if I can see why it was leaking- it looks fine. :?
It was fitted carefully using a spline protector sleeve too.
No, the oil wasn't coming through the primary gear, either.
We'll see if this seal is any better. :lol:


An old fella who does a lot of mini work locally reckons he's figured out what makes them leak and fixes them. The spring doesn't have enough tension in it, so he takes a few mm out of the spring - the spring has a join in it where one end screws into the other. He just unscrews it, cuts the end off and screws it back together. Obviously you cut the open end, not the special screw in end

He showed me how to do it, reckons he's done a heap and they never come back to him.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:02 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Simon there are 4 seals that I know of:
#1. Cheap red one sold by Minispares etc, yes it has a weak spring. But the geometry of the lip is wrong, it is way shallower than the others below.
#2. GACO competition red one- looks and feels the same as the old (good) red seals we got here years ago (which MS say it is).
#3. Rover SPI black seal. These have a good spring and the lip seems slightly deeper than 2.
#4. Payen red seal, currently sold by Kc and included in their gasket set. it looks and feels much like the #2 GACO seal above but is not branded GACO.

#1 noname brand seal has a reputation in UK for their springs coming off on fitment. I had one in my 1360, it did about 9000 miles then started to leak a bit. So I replaced it (spring was still intact) with a GACO. This seal leaked from day 1, I still don't know why, the seal lip seems worn even though it's only done about 500km.
I have just replaced it with a Payen, so far so good. 8)

I have used #3 (Rover) seals on a few rebuilds and never had one leak.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:14 pm 
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Location: melbourne ferntreegully
arrived home after the Alpine Tour 3pm left home 1100am friday :D :D :D :D :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:25 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Bolted the head on the 1380 stroker block I'm rebuilding, stood it on its oil pump end and filled the water jacket up with 1/2.5 mix of molasses/water. The block has a fair bit of rust in there even though it's had the welch plugs out, been degreased and gurneyed twice, which got all the loose stuff out.

I'll leave it in for a week or 2, hose it out and repeat once or twice. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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