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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:19 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 11:04 am
Posts: 441
Location: Brisbane
Hmm, so that will be worse than a 3 ohm coil then as that will divide the voltage on the coil. Hmmm, I am feeling like I got some bad advice...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
No difference in running performance really between a 3 ohm coil getting 12V, and a 1.5 ohm coil fed via a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. :wink:

But don't hook a 1.5 ohm coil directly to 12V with a Pertronix 1, you will probably fry the Pertronix, if using a 4 cylinder dizzy. However they do say you can do this with 6 or 8 cylinder dizzys... :?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 3:11 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 11:04 am
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Well I thought I would ask them and this is their answer;

"For normal driving with with a substantial amount of low-RPM running you should use a 3.0 ohm coil. When there is more time between coil discharges at low RPM, heat will build in the coil/Ignitor circuit. This excess heat can reduce the life of the electronics in the Ignitor. In a race application the rate of discharge of the coil is high, so the excessive heat does not build up. If your vehicle serves double duty as both a street and a race car, I would suggest including a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in series with the coil for street use and then bypassing it for racing. The higher current flow in the race mode would assure that the coil is fully charged at high RPM."

Pretty straight forward... Time to get a ballast resistor I think.

Cheers,
Alex


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